9 Replies

I’m not too sure draw bored joints were meant for soft woods like cedar, at least not unless the dimensions are large. They will work better in harder stronger material.
…. but good on ya for giving it a try!

I thought that they only used one draw peg per joint , could be wrong .

You wouldn’t believe how much money they’re spending in this deck and screen. I’m not even sure of the whole cost since I came in after they tossed the first contractor. Most of the materials were there already the deck suits on steel dunnage above the roof. I think I’ve gone through over 20 lbs of fasteners so far and there is sure to be another 10. The deck itself can’t be more than 160 sf.

Anyway, I guess you answered my question, Paul. Soft wood, narrow rails. I guess I’ll pass on the draw pegs this time.

Wen I did my backyard picnick table, I had to use 1/16 offset for the holes. I was using redwood for the top and even after I drove the pegs in the the redwood compressed under pressure that resulted in gaps.

1/16 would work with some fill in for small gaps.

Bruce, I just saw your comment. I think you’re right. Plus after reading this I found that the location of my draw bore was totally wrong. It was at the opposite side of the tenon shoulder when it should be close to the shoulder. I may still go with 3 (one draw bore, two straight pins), but I’ll do the draw pin first, then drill and peg the others after adjusting for square.

Ian, after reading your comment about redwood, I decided to go for it after all. What’s the worst that could happen? LOL.. At least in my favor is that the gates are only 25" wide, so there isn’t a lot of pressure on the joint. Also, they will cover a mechanical room door, so they won’t be used often.

I’m feeling a lot better about this. Hopefully Wednesday I’ll be starting the gates.

Just make sure you put a diagonal on to support the weight of the far (from the hinge) side of the gate, even if it’s just a wire /turnbuckle. That will do more to keep things straight than the joinery will.

Take a look at this: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/90129

Though it’s different from what you trying to do. He does the “Z” a tiny different.

Your project looks very good Brian. I think that using more than one peg will have them potentially working against each other.

The french Z (zed?) Is a neat trick. Diagonal bracing is definitely in the cards.

However, I have to pass on the draw bore after all. :-( I’m under pressure to finish and there’s no time to fiddle with m&t construction. At least I gained some useful knowledge. Next time.