7 Replies

Hey Jeff
I used The scary sharp method for years ,using different grits of sandpaper on a piece of glass,but more recent years I use my work sharp 3000 ,its basically a motorized version of the scary sharp method but with a motor and much easier and quicker.

http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WS3000-Wood-Sharpener/dp/B000PVHIMW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1451240144&sr=8-8&keywords=work+sharp+tool+sharpener

I’ve seen the worksharp. I have something similar that was built in the 60’s. It’s awful, but that’s mostly because it doesn’t have a very good tool rest and relies on operator skill (which I totally lack) to keep the blade square on the disk. I’ve also got a reasonably decent set of waterstones, and several granite surface plates I can put sandpaper on. The honing guide I have is a clamp type, so it won’t accept certain of my blades, and for the ones that will fit, it also relies on operator skill (which I totally lack) to set up to get the proper angle. I’ve been thinking about the Veritas MKII honing guide system. It looks like the setup jig on that one takes a lot of the guesswork out of it, and the deluxe set has the adapters for my unusual blades.
I’ve also been thinking about the smaller and less expensive Tormek machine. Still thinking on the subject.

Whatever works for you,I would guess any system will take a certain amount of skill,that’s kind of what woodworking is all about is practise and skill building. Good luck on whatever route you go.

Sorry…wrong thread!

The work sharp, the scary sharp, stones, …buy a jig to put your blades in.

I found the solution to my sharpening issues. If you are unsatisfied with your sharpening situation, I’d suggest you shouldn’t miss this sale. A 10 inch wet grinder similar to Tormek for $159.
"":http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Wet-Grinder-Kit-Anniversary-Edition/T10010ANV

Jeff,
Nothing wrong with sending everything out for repair for a sharpening service.
Just make sure there is enough spares to continue on whilst the are away.

I sharpen my drills up to 13mm with a drill Doctor.
I sharpen all my chisels with a process similar to A1Jim by the sound of it.
Planner blades Jointer blades and thicknesser blades all get outsourced.
Saw blades get binned if a few fangs are missing
Spade bits and augers get the file.
I have a book on sharpening, covering just about every type of edge.
Only last year I sharpened a hedge Trimmer for a friend and used a flap disk.
After I was finished it was keep your fingers away from this puppy I tell you!
Router bits I throw away if my diamond hone will not make them shave my fingernail. (Thats turned off and out of the collet by the way)

Normal Band saw blades to the bin. But I have researched how to resharpen them and may do so with my bi metal blades.