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Rick,
I've also done some testing with the Iron Acetate.
For going dark, the wood needs tannins to react. White oak has them, along with red oak, cherry, and other woods.
To really push the limits, the wood can be loaded artificially, usually with black tea or other strong tea. One can also buy compounds with tannin extract that work, but tea is cheap 😀
Make it as strong as possible, then really saturate the wood for the best black. You can see that the pores are still lighter, but this can be eliminated with some good soaking and scrubbing with a toothbrush to work it in.
To react, ammonia fuming or iron acetate will react, you just need to decide which is less toxic 😵
With ammonia, the wood wont get raised grain and you can do a project after tea-ing and final sanding.
Blackening is an old school process that everyone should explore, nice to see it brought up!
👍
I've also done some testing with the Iron Acetate.
For going dark, the wood needs tannins to react. White oak has them, along with red oak, cherry, and other woods.
To really push the limits, the wood can be loaded artificially, usually with black tea or other strong tea. One can also buy compounds with tannin extract that work, but tea is cheap 😀
Make it as strong as possible, then really saturate the wood for the best black. You can see that the pores are still lighter, but this can be eliminated with some good soaking and scrubbing with a toothbrush to work it in.
To react, ammonia fuming or iron acetate will react, you just need to decide which is less toxic 😵
With ammonia, the wood wont get raised grain and you can do a project after tea-ing and final sanding.
Blackening is an old school process that everyone should explore, nice to see it brought up!
👍
