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Is it from one sheet or your marquetry (shiit, if it is)?
Usually I'll try to go from one sheet for this type of pattern so the wood and grain is more consistent, but often I hate to reduce a larger piece to scraps and will use multiple bit's 'n' pieces (leftovers).
For this I cut a bunch of triangles and made up 4 panels with enough edge to trim for an even reveal. Could just make a full sheet and quarter it, but the errors in sizing the triangles stack and can get wonky over large dimensions (plus going blind).
For this I cut a bunch of triangles and made up 4 panels with enough edge to trim for an even reveal. Could just make a full sheet and quarter it, but the errors in sizing the triangles stack and can get wonky over large dimensions (plus going blind).
did you slip a 12.7mm bearing and sleeve over a 12.7mm shank "normal" bit?
Ayup! Had plenty of other same-shank pattern bits I could borrow from.
One can't really use this style of bit in a router table and rely on the fence for the passes. Unless you leave a sliver of the original wood, it will not follow onto the outfeed fence without leaving a bit of snipe. I'll sometimes attach a template that will ride the fence and clear the cutter, but the bearing just makes it simpler.
Didn't really care what the size (O.D.) of the bearing was since I could just change the template to accommodate.
For instance, the hole was a certain size and I used a straight bit with a bearing that matched the bit diameter. This left an oval with clean and square sides. For shaping with the thumbnail bit, I wanted the inside of the cutters radius (3/4" radius curve and 5/8" chord) to just touch the inside of the oval, This required a template with the same oval, but 3/8" offset from the perimeter of the original oval.
For cutting the outer edges of the top (6" square), I just used a square 5-1/4" square, centered on the wood.
Seems most of these bits have a common outer diameter that finding a matching bearing OD is usually easy (makes for all the pencil pushing calculations easy(er).
One can't really use this style of bit in a router table and rely on the fence for the passes. Unless you leave a sliver of the original wood, it will not follow onto the outfeed fence without leaving a bit of snipe. I'll sometimes attach a template that will ride the fence and clear the cutter, but the bearing just makes it simpler.
Didn't really care what the size (O.D.) of the bearing was since I could just change the template to accommodate.
For instance, the hole was a certain size and I used a straight bit with a bearing that matched the bit diameter. This left an oval with clean and square sides. For shaping with the thumbnail bit, I wanted the inside of the cutters radius (3/4" radius curve and 5/8" chord) to just touch the inside of the oval, This required a template with the same oval, but 3/8" offset from the perimeter of the original oval.
For cutting the outer edges of the top (6" square), I just used a square 5-1/4" square, centered on the wood.
Seems most of these bits have a common outer diameter that finding a matching bearing OD is usually easy (makes for all the pencil pushing calculations easy(er).
