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I hate cutter burning on end grain.
My usual approach is an appropriately sized hard sanding block that I can use on an edge or bevel and not have it be to "tippy" and mess up a crisp edge. Playing domino sizes wood blocks work well for most edges.
The block will have coarse PSA paper, maybe 80 or 100 grit to get rid of the char as fast and easy as possible.
Then (only after the char is 99% gone) I'll move up through the grits (120, 240, maybe 320).
Still learning how to avoid the burn in the first place.
First thing to check , "Is the blade clean/sharp?"
Then a decision on slow or fast cut. Seems lingering too long in a cross cut can heat up any wood resins and start the burn (cherry is horrible about this).
Go too fast and the blade may deflect and leave a rough surface.
My usual approach is an appropriately sized hard sanding block that I can use on an edge or bevel and not have it be to "tippy" and mess up a crisp edge. Playing domino sizes wood blocks work well for most edges.
The block will have coarse PSA paper, maybe 80 or 100 grit to get rid of the char as fast and easy as possible.
Then (only after the char is 99% gone) I'll move up through the grits (120, 240, maybe 320).
Still learning how to avoid the burn in the first place.
First thing to check , "Is the blade clean/sharp?"
Then a decision on slow or fast cut. Seems lingering too long in a cross cut can heat up any wood resins and start the burn (cherry is horrible about this).
Go too fast and the blade may deflect and leave a rough surface.
