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For the chamfer, plenty of options.
Personally I'm comfortable with my router table and would use one of my 1/4" 45 degree bits with the 1/8" template bushing on the tip. Raise the bit enough to get just the right amount of taper, then just whiz the cross around the bit.
This bit would leave "un-tapered" sections from the bushing where the cross pieces meet. This could actually look nice. With a more conventional bit that has a larger bearing (usually 1/2"), the tapers would be further down the arms.
Second option is the same bit with the bearing and the cross in the two parts (could also use the table fence).
The part with the dado "up" would get full passes on each edge, with the bit low enough that the bits taper would not make contact with the dado'd section. The other part I would mark where the intersection is with a pencil, then just taper up to or just short of those lines (remember, parts are run face down 😉).
A chisel could then be used to clean up the tapers where the two arms meet forming a nice sharp line at the corners.
You could also just clamp the arms in a vise with the edges up and use a block plane or even some sand paper/block to sand in the angles. Same deal with not crossing the joint marks for the side to side arm.
Personally I'm comfortable with my router table and would use one of my 1/4" 45 degree bits with the 1/8" template bushing on the tip. Raise the bit enough to get just the right amount of taper, then just whiz the cross around the bit.
This bit would leave "un-tapered" sections from the bushing where the cross pieces meet. This could actually look nice. With a more conventional bit that has a larger bearing (usually 1/2"), the tapers would be further down the arms.
Second option is the same bit with the bearing and the cross in the two parts (could also use the table fence).
The part with the dado "up" would get full passes on each edge, with the bit low enough that the bits taper would not make contact with the dado'd section. The other part I would mark where the intersection is with a pencil, then just taper up to or just short of those lines (remember, parts are run face down 😉).
A chisel could then be used to clean up the tapers where the two arms meet forming a nice sharp line at the corners.
You could also just clamp the arms in a vise with the edges up and use a block plane or even some sand paper/block to sand in the angles. Same deal with not crossing the joint marks for the side to side arm.
