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I also do a lot of what you talk about when resawing larger (taller) stock. Instead of a kerfing saw I do a simple touch cut using the bandsaw. Only entering about an 1/8" then backing the stock away. I'll sometimes do that to both the front, leading edge as I plan to feed it, if I know the set-up is dead on already. Like I have already used it on a few pieces already. If it's a first run, I'll usually also run it on what will be the topside of the stock as well, to give me a sightline of what I am cutting, to what I am about to cut. Some just draw a pencil line, which is fine. I find the cut easier to see.
I think the biggest things are to perfectly prep the stock prior to any cut, make it absolutely sqaure x 4, so it not only follows the perfect fence, but is 90 to the table. Then after each cut I re-run the face that has been cut, to again make it 4 square. On the outfeed side I use as tall of a support, as I can, also at 90 to keep the stock pushed to the tall fence, as tightly as I can. I truly believe it's non square stock, and stock falling away from the fence, that is actually what most resawer's call drift. It really is just a straight cut, that isn't done at 90.
Making wedges is easy, resawing flat panels is something like work. Takes you a minute longer to do, and ya have to hold your tongue just so. But mostly it is just really careful planning, and a good saw with a strong back, so you don't get flex. All of the 14" Steel back, whether they be square, or triangular, and larger steel back saws can do a resaw if you set them up properly, provided they have workable guides.
The biggest set up issue, and one I have seen to be off is the table HAS to be 90 to the blade. This is so often the culprit, when I have been asked to look at someone's saw. It's always my first check anymore. DO NOT go based on the POS indicator either, they are trash, and almost always set wrong. Use a precision square, straight up the back of the tensioned blade. It is sometimes possible to set the indicator based from this, but if you do never change that blade, usually that is all you need to do to queer that reading again. A 105" blade from ALL of the many sources is likely to grow, or shrink up to 1" in length, 105, should have the letters "APPX" next to it, because that is all it is, is approximately 105", Know that all that in, or out you need to move will queer that 90 scale. 1/8" to 3/4" or bigger, if you don't think that will also change that square, keep checking that blade. Every single change or metric will change that scale, even on a high dollar saw, with a really well made scale. For the most part they are a useless feature. Exactly the same as the tension indicators are.
Never spend pennies on better makes of that scale, or the tension indicator. Instead buy a very accurate 90 square, and a very accurate indicator of tilt/angle. They need not cost you hundreds, or thousands of dollars to provide you with splendid accuracy.
Buy good quality blades, and when you find a brand that offers you amazing results, stick with it. I do believe for me the absolute best brand, may be your worst nightmare, and visa versa. This is why you do see such opposing reviews. Some blades evidently preform better with different set up parameters. I personally belong to the school of stringing them like a tight F guitar string, no BS, make it taught, and it will cut like I want it. For you and your brand of blade, it could be what I would call sloppy. Trying, and playing with a few brands is usually what it takes to make it all work for you.
For me I only buy the lower cost steel blades. I've tried a few "carbide" blades for the longer lasting BS. All of the ones I have used broke really early in a blades life for me, IOW my usual steel blade, costing 1/8 the price of this carbide loser lasted much longer than the life I got from it. So I buy 4 or 5 at a time, so if I do go dull, then I have a blade ready to swap in. You may find carbide is the best choice. but if you do see quick breakage, keep my way in mind. Always remember advertising is 99% BS, and 1% reality for a lot of products, so if they are making a hundred bux every time you buy a carbide blade, and they are going crapper on you, don't support them getting rich on you. SWAP
I think the biggest things are to perfectly prep the stock prior to any cut, make it absolutely sqaure x 4, so it not only follows the perfect fence, but is 90 to the table. Then after each cut I re-run the face that has been cut, to again make it 4 square. On the outfeed side I use as tall of a support, as I can, also at 90 to keep the stock pushed to the tall fence, as tightly as I can. I truly believe it's non square stock, and stock falling away from the fence, that is actually what most resawer's call drift. It really is just a straight cut, that isn't done at 90.
Making wedges is easy, resawing flat panels is something like work. Takes you a minute longer to do, and ya have to hold your tongue just so. But mostly it is just really careful planning, and a good saw with a strong back, so you don't get flex. All of the 14" Steel back, whether they be square, or triangular, and larger steel back saws can do a resaw if you set them up properly, provided they have workable guides.
The biggest set up issue, and one I have seen to be off is the table HAS to be 90 to the blade. This is so often the culprit, when I have been asked to look at someone's saw. It's always my first check anymore. DO NOT go based on the POS indicator either, they are trash, and almost always set wrong. Use a precision square, straight up the back of the tensioned blade. It is sometimes possible to set the indicator based from this, but if you do never change that blade, usually that is all you need to do to queer that reading again. A 105" blade from ALL of the many sources is likely to grow, or shrink up to 1" in length, 105, should have the letters "APPX" next to it, because that is all it is, is approximately 105", Know that all that in, or out you need to move will queer that 90 scale. 1/8" to 3/4" or bigger, if you don't think that will also change that square, keep checking that blade. Every single change or metric will change that scale, even on a high dollar saw, with a really well made scale. For the most part they are a useless feature. Exactly the same as the tension indicators are.
Never spend pennies on better makes of that scale, or the tension indicator. Instead buy a very accurate 90 square, and a very accurate indicator of tilt/angle. They need not cost you hundreds, or thousands of dollars to provide you with splendid accuracy.
Buy good quality blades, and when you find a brand that offers you amazing results, stick with it. I do believe for me the absolute best brand, may be your worst nightmare, and visa versa. This is why you do see such opposing reviews. Some blades evidently preform better with different set up parameters. I personally belong to the school of stringing them like a tight F guitar string, no BS, make it taught, and it will cut like I want it. For you and your brand of blade, it could be what I would call sloppy. Trying, and playing with a few brands is usually what it takes to make it all work for you.
For me I only buy the lower cost steel blades. I've tried a few "carbide" blades for the longer lasting BS. All of the ones I have used broke really early in a blades life for me, IOW my usual steel blade, costing 1/8 the price of this carbide loser lasted much longer than the life I got from it. So I buy 4 or 5 at a time, so if I do go dull, then I have a blade ready to swap in. You may find carbide is the best choice. but if you do see quick breakage, keep my way in mind. Always remember advertising is 99% BS, and 1% reality for a lot of products, so if they are making a hundred bux every time you buy a carbide blade, and they are going crapper on you, don't support them getting rich on you. SWAP
