re: Everything Band Saw

Agreed.  I've been using Snodgrass' recommendation of centering the gullet on the crown since I watched his video after getting my first band saw about 8 years ago.  When I first heard him describe why to do this it seems pretty intuitive to me.  You want the tension where the action is.  I have also discovered that when you setup a blade this way, it does not require as wide of a blade, even for thick resawing and milling.  When I got my first blade for milling green logs, I went with the widest blade that my saw can handle but after experimenting, I never go wider than a 1/2" blade anymore. 

BTW, IIRC, I think that on band saws that do not have have crowned wheels or tires, you are supposed align the gullet on the front edge of the wheel so that the teeth and set are not affected or damaged by riding on the wheel.  

Pete, I do not know how good the blade is that comes with the Harvey, but I have had excellent results with Timberwolf blades.  Often the blades comes with bands saws are designed more for cutting relatively thin stock with a fairly high TPI.  

A rule of thumb for picking the TPI is that you need a minimum of 3 teeth in the wood at all times.  For example, if you are cutting a less than 1" thick piece, a 3 TPI blade is marginal because you only have 2 teeth engaged in cutting at a time.