I have also discovered that when you setup a blade this way, it does not require as wide of a blade, even for thick resawing and milling.  When I got my first blade for milling green logs, I went with the widest blade that my saw can handle but after experimenting, I never go wider than a 1/2" blade anymore. 

I’ve found this to be key. After reading about it and thinking on it, it makes perfect sense. As long as the leading (read: cutting) edge of the blade it supported, and the tension and feed rates are right, the remainder of the blade is really just coasting along (assuming straight line/resaw cuts). I also think that ensuring the gullet is in the middle of the tire really helps to reduce any drift, from a set up perspective. If the tire is more supporting the rear of the blade, the teeth are allowed to wander, and then variance in the wood will push them to the side, as the rear of the blade pivots on the tire. That creates a lever effect on the rear of the blade and causes drift. Same (or similar) to having too high a feed rate. The  rear of the blade is forced into the rear guide and then has nowhere to go, so it ends up acting as a pivot point. Continued pressure forces the front of the blade (teeth) off to the side, resulting in drift. The wider the blade, the more pronounced this is…

So, like so much of woodworking, sharp teeth and proper setup result in the most accurate cuts. 

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".