Share your craft projects
Make new craft buddies
Ask craft questions
Blog your craft journey
I figure the main reason that it took a while to begin using thinner blade stock was the ability to braze on the carbide.
I can envision someone sitting at a work station with an oxy-acy torch, holding a carbide chunk with tweezers, and trying to braze 🙂
I bought the 1" RK just for the greater beam strength and illusion that I could get a bit smoother resawing but since I haven't spun that blade up I don't know if there will be any difference.
If you think about it, there are a lot of bend-straight-bend cycles on a blade and the bigger the wheel, the lower the amount of bend.
I keep an eye on things and inspect my blade every so often looking for the beginnings of failure, but even though it still looks fine I'd still never consider one for a 14" until they get a few more years behind the offerings to have worked out the metallurgy.
Do you know the thickness of your blade that failed?
I have "calibrated" my tension gauge to be sure I never exceed the yield point of blades I use as one defense against trashing a $100+ blade.
If/when I get it sharpened, then I'll feel better about it being a good fit for my 16" saw. Hopefully it'll last until the carbide is past the point of further sharpening. At that point I'll feel better about the investment.
Carbide seems the only choice for hard-hardwoods, kinda like what was figured out with table saw blades many decades ago.
I can envision someone sitting at a work station with an oxy-acy torch, holding a carbide chunk with tweezers, and trying to braze 🙂
I bought the 1" RK just for the greater beam strength and illusion that I could get a bit smoother resawing but since I haven't spun that blade up I don't know if there will be any difference.
If you think about it, there are a lot of bend-straight-bend cycles on a blade and the bigger the wheel, the lower the amount of bend.
I keep an eye on things and inspect my blade every so often looking for the beginnings of failure, but even though it still looks fine I'd still never consider one for a 14" until they get a few more years behind the offerings to have worked out the metallurgy.
Do you know the thickness of your blade that failed?
I have "calibrated" my tension gauge to be sure I never exceed the yield point of blades I use as one defense against trashing a $100+ blade.
If/when I get it sharpened, then I'll feel better about it being a good fit for my 16" saw. Hopefully it'll last until the carbide is past the point of further sharpening. At that point I'll feel better about the investment.
Carbide seems the only choice for hard-hardwoods, kinda like what was figured out with table saw blades many decades ago.
