What happened? I can only find it online, and they all want a war price.
I need something to coat a jig to keep glue from sticking, Johnson was my go to, but I used it all up.
The only paste wax my local guy has is Turtlewax. I have a test going, but I don't like the looks of it, thin and green. Johnsons never caused a problem.
What are you using?
You don't always get what you go after,but you do get what you wouldn't have got if you didn't go after what you didn't get. Blaze Foley
Johnson quit making that stuff years ago. I still have a little left that I use for my tools.
Minwax sells various colors and I find it "ok", but costlier than the Johnsons use to be.
The turtle wax may have silicones which can mess with a finish, but for a jig the silicone should not cause issues. You can also use the clear packing tape, wax paper, etc if the jig shape allows.
I’ve been wondering the same thing. Been using Bostik Glidecote but looking to switch over to paste wax. Any experience with TreWax? How does it stack up against Minwax and Johnsons?
I've only ever used the Johnsons and Minwax, but I'd imagine there are a number of hardwood floor waxes available.
I often use Waxilit which is a mold release wax for when I am inserting tenons into mortises and want to keep the glue squeeze out from getting into the wood. A tiny bit goes a long way and it can be removed with mineral spirits. Expensive though and certainly nothing amazing versus regular wax.
Yeah, after Johnson's stopped making it, the hoarding kicked in. I used MinWax paste wax for years. Frankly there are better waxes out there, some of which have less pungent solvents so the smell is not nearly as annoying or at least dissipates more quickly. The best ones usually have some carnauba wax. Not sure that I would use the Turtle wax without looking to see if it has other ingredients you might not want around your woodworking.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
Just watch the wording of the advertisement... Mine was advertised asAntique Johnson's Paste Wax... and I got the Antique... 3/4 a can and the original grungy cloth,
I slapped a new cloth into it... and it still works... furthermore I feel "cleaner"... Caveat emptor!
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
I glued up a test yesterday. This morning I removed it from the jig barehanded. My normal glue up in a jig like this is to let it set in the jig for about an hour, then set it aside to keep drying. Usually that's because I need the jig for more glue ups, but also to make sure it comes out of the jig. It passed that test.
As far as chemicals, Johnson's didn't have ingredients listed on the can. The only ingredient I understand on the Turtlewax can is the first one listed,water. After that chemical names that I can't relate to.
I think it will do for this intended purpose. I also have paraffin wax blocks, but they are difficult to apply in this situation, but do perform well. Maybe if I heat it I can brush it on.
You don't always get what you go after,but you do get what you wouldn't have got if you didn't go after what you didn't get. Blaze Foley
If you google the product name and MSDS or even just SDS, you will get links for the Material Safety Data Sheet that will usually tell you of any ingredients that could be to some degree hazardous (which could be just flammable) and sometimes some of its other ingredients. For example, the MSDS for Turtlewax Hard shell finish is here and shows that it does have some silicone in it as well as a clay, that may be (?) a polishing abrasive. Not something you would want on your wood projects. Note that you can find a copy of the Johnson's Paste Wax MSDS here. It only shows that it contains parafin waxes and lists no carnauba or bee's wax but they may not list any non hazardous ingredients. Surprisingly, the date on it is 2019. I suppose that they may have to keep it updated until all stocks are depleted?
The MSDS can be confusing especially if you are not a chemist, but you can google the ingredients to get more information about them or even just a more common name for it that you are familiar with. Sometimes they just say something vague like petroleum distillates which I usually take to mean something like mineral spirits. Another one is Stoddard solvent which if you google it appears to be mineral spirits. You will also usually see a CAS# for some of the ingredients. This can give more specific information for the exact chemical and sometimes a list of all of the names it may be listed as on labels.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
BTW, Bugout boy, I have used Trewax and I like it. It is less smelly than many of the other paste waxes I have tried. Briwax is not bad either but both do have some mineral spirit smell. I mostly use the Trewax for coating cast iron tools and to prevent glue from sticking to clamping jigs and the Briwax for finishing but I have used both for both uses.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
I've dealt with Agent Orange,paraquat and smoked Kools for 40 years. Born and raised in Cancer County Ohio, got enough PFA's to build a space station. Paste wax ain't going to hurt me too bad.
As long as my glue ups don't stick to the jig.
You don't always get what you go after,but you do get what you wouldn't have got if you didn't go after what you didn't get. Blaze Foley
I'm probably wrong, usually am, but I haven't seen Johnsons being sold anywhere for like 10 years. I just see Minwax, and the last few times I bought some that was it. If I'm really going for a "WAX" finish, I upgraded a long time back to Renaissance Wax, which is about twice the price of Minwax. I get it at WoodCraft. It really works much better than the cheaper stuff IMO. Mostly I use the Minwax for waxing cast iron, and stuff I just want to slide better, and the higher priced stuff on a waxed finish.
Never tried Renaissance but I think that it is a Microcrystalline wax which is more highly refined that regular paraffine waxes which supposedly makes it harder and more durable.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
I'm with George in that the fancy waxes are reserved for actual finishes and the cheaper stuff handles the no-stick jobs. I do like the Minwax "dark" for dark woods however, just 'cause it doesn't turn white if it gets down into the pores.
With veneering, the cauls tend to get unavoidable glue contact. For those I'll usually use some MDF with a coating of Johnsons. If I put wax paper or just a paper towel between the MDF and veneer I'll use what ever I have handy. Melamine is great for not getting glue to stick and if there is some, a rasor blade cuts it right off. Can't always use that for some jigs however.
I usually wrap my cauls with clear packing tape. It releases well even without wax, though I usually just wipe a thin coat of wax on it for extra insurance.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
