I previously asked for assistance on how to glue a large sheet of solid 2 ply cherry veneer to a sheet of plywood, to be used as the back board for a tall bookcase I'm making. I received a lot of excellent comments, information, opinions, and experiences to include in my decision making. Thank you gentlemen for your responses, I found each and every one very helpful. Now for my intended method of proceeding - not necessarily for others to use as this has yet to be implemented & it won't work in all applications:
I've ruled out any and all contact cement, due to the hazardous fumes and the need to extinguish all pilot flames on the same level and floors below my work level. This is true even for the advertised Non-flammable and Low Odor products, information emailed to me by the manufacturer`s customer service departments.
Since I'm gluing wood to wood, my veneer is 2 ply cherry with vertical grain on one side and horizontal on the other, I've decided to use my standard go to glue, Titebond 3. I'm using this even though Titebond Customer Service said I might consider Titebond 2 because it is somewhat flexible after curing & my quarter inch sanded plywood might bend during installation. My concern - 2 is yellow and 3 is darker with a walnut color, and should any of the glue seep through it may be very visible.
So, off to the workshop (integral garage) to experiment. Since I started with a 4 X 8 sheet of plywood and a 4 X 8 sheet of veneer, I have the cutoffs from my needed 72" H X 38" W substrate to experiment with. My intention is to glue this in multiple steps, due to a lack of a veneering vacuum bag and a limited amount of weights to apply during glue curing. I won't cut the veneer in strips however, didn't think this being necessary because the veneer is very flexible. The veneer shipped to me rolled up in a 9" X 9" X 50" tall box.
Using the cutoffs, I used Titebond 3 to glue the first 12” of veneer and the quarter inch plywood, covered with weight and let it sit overnight.
The next day I tested the flexibility of the veneer, but not to the point of breaking. Again, TB 3 was spread on the next 6 or so inches. To help ensure gluing up to the end of the previous section, I used a stiff bristle paint brush to reach as far as possible into this area, while also allowing an accumulation of glue at the seam. Weight was applied, and then it sat another 24 hours.
When cured, inspection of the glued area showed no glue on the top surface, and as far as I can tell, it had no loose area, nor any buckles, cracks, or any other faults.
When I assemble this back onto the bookcase, I intend to apply 5 screws across the top and bottom, and also across each of the 4 shelves. With these 30 brass screws securing the back very tightly to the cabinet, I can't see the veneer ever being a problem. So, it is going to be Titebond 3 for me. I'll post all results when the bookcase is complete, just need to make the crown moldings to finish the construction.
Thanks again to all that responded to my cry for help with veneering, and thanks for viewing.
Good technique using what you have available! I think as "out of the bottle", TB3 dries to a good color for intermediately toned woods like cherry. You can tint the glues with dyes which I do for projects that need black borders (glue tinted black), but cherry has nice closed grain that never gives me squeeze-through issues like burls or grainy oaks.
Thanks for the responses gentlemen, much appreciated. My main purpose for posting this is to provide anyone who, like me, is scared to death of having to achieve such a veneer glueup. Hope this helps someone.
Well Steve, refusing to use any form of contact cement, this was my only option.
987Ron, feel free to copy and / or pass on to anyone in need.
Thanks Dave, I'll find out how good after I do the back panel.
SplinterGroup, actually Titebond 3 was mentioned to me by TB customer service as a better color match. If I tried to dye the glue, I'd have screwed it up, poor color matching. My wife says I wear the most ridiculous outfits.
Mr. BB1, for sure, still have the email where Weldwood CS said even the non-flammable needs all pilot flames extinguished. Surprised me, and made me then wonder if they say Low Odor, how low is low.
ONE LAST NOTE, that might help anyone attempting to doing such large glue-up, this direct from Titebond; Or, without a press, doing the iron method works as well. For the iron on method, Titebond III can be applied to both sides and allowed to fully dry. Then with a regular clothes iron, on highest setting (cotton setting) you can iron in circular motions from the inside of the veneer, moving outward. Oh yes, and use a brown paper bag (or craft paper) as a barrier between the iron and veneer to avoid scorch marks.
That's it guys, final results to follow in completed bookcase project.
Oldtool "Mr. BB1, for sure, still have the email where Weldwood CS said even the non-flammable needs all pilot flames extinguished. Surprised me, and made me then wonder if they say Low Odor, how low is low."
What else could they say? They have liability issues. I've sprayed flammable contact cement with the space heater blowing. I've sprayed and stuck I'm sure, well over a thousand sheets in my career. No way I would ever worry about non flammable vapors.
Not trying to say anything bad about your decision, just saying much to do about nothing in my opinion. The whole back could be done in 20 minutes with contact instead of days the way your doing it. But I understand you have to do whatever makes you comfortable.
Figuring out how to do something you have never done is what makes a good challenge.
I have seen a few installers spraying contact cement right next to roaring space heaters, which should N E V E R be used inside with doors, and windows all closed up, talk about fumes, but I never actually saw any fires, or dead peeps laying around. I think the pilot light thing is exactly a CYA move on their part.
I often do stuff to make myself warm and fuzzy though, and agree that anything that makes you uncomfortable should be treated in a way that makes you warm, and fuzzy. Or find another way, so you are. Big believer in your party, your rules.
GeorgeWest replied 27 minutes ago new I have seen a few installers spraying contact cement right next to roaring space heaters, which should N E V E R be used inside with doors, and windows all closed up, talk about fumes,....
Many years ago when I shared a house, my house mate used to spray her Chrissy trees with hair spray to stop the leaves from dropping. Me, being the son of a Hungarian Fern Cutter used to traditionally put sparklers on the tree. Lit the first sparkler... and you can imagine.... WHOOSH!
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
I don't see flexibility being much of an issue here. In fact, everything I have read indicates that the less flexible the adhesive the better for veneer.
BTW, for future reference (it didn't occur to me to send this in response to your earlier questions), you can make your own bow cauls pretty simply with a hand plane. Before I started using hand planes, I actually did this with a jointer too. This link has simple instructions on how to do it. I have made a few of them over the years and they are great anytime you need to clamp over wide areas. You can use them to clamp down veneer but I mostly use them help keep panel glue ups flat during clamping You can make them for one time use out of 2-by stock. I usually line them with packing tape and apply paste wax to prevent squeeze out from gluing them to my workpiece.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
Great tip Lazyman. I hadn't considered cauls for my glueups on this, used them for dining tables, but they will benefit this application due to my limited weights. Thanks.
For clamping veneer, it would probably be a good idea to put some plywood between the cauls and veneer to spread out the force a little and reduce the chance of issues from localized pressure. I would wax the plywood or even put some sort of plastic sheeting between the PW and veneer just in case there is a break or something in the veneer that allows glue to seep through. Gluing the plywood to your veneer would be a very bad day.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
