I'm questioning if oak would make for good spline material if I decide to go with a contrasting color. Oak just feels rather "rough"? Also considering just using walnut. Part of the issue is how small I had to make the top due to my placement of Dominoes as shown in this storystick I made so I could know placements when removing the top (dark section is the floating panels, pencil lines and D is for Dominoes on both sides, and white was for potential splines)
Anyway, feel like I need to add some strength to the bevels on the lid. The box itself has the support of Dominoes so any splines there would be decorative only.
This one (still in progress) I used maple - ok, but will be a third color and wood type in the box. Not overly happy with that.
I've found that using "splintery" wood for splines requires some extra care when trimming them to be sure they don't splinter in a way that would cause a problem.
Since the part of the splines that will be visible are end-grain, you might want to test how whatever finish you plan to use will look there. The walnut splines will probably look darker than the sides of the box. You might like having a more subtle difference like that.
“If there are no stupid questions, what do you call this?” — Horace the Horse
barb pretty much any wood will work for a spline. when i do use them i never even worry about the wood it self. i pick a wood i think will look good and nothing more !
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
ChuckV - the word "splintery" is a better one to describe my concern, and I would likely put oak in that category. Not sure if white oak might be better in that regard than red oak? For lighter color options, I've only used basswood and then on the latest box, maple. I may try some white oak on a test piece to see how it works out. I do like the idea of a more subtle look with the walnut. Plan to use Odie's for the finish which will give a deep richness to the walnut.
The differing spline sizes are a nice look on that box (and really like the lid). My wall thickness won't allow for much variation so will likely keep consistent for this project. Will tuck this design feature into my mental files for the future.
Pottz - not really worried about strength, but rather how workable it is for splines. Although I try to saw carefully, I have had splines that split a bit (i.e., corner edge breaks).
Will do a test run. Hope to get the box ready for finish by the end of day tomorrow. Have to do some testing/setup for these hinges as well. I'm learning a lot with this project (as always!).
You might be already doing this. When trimming the glued splines, you should start from the corner and cut toward the box, if that makes sense. Think of the direction of the grain, like when planing.
“If there are no stupid questions, what do you call this?” — Horace the Horse
barb thats what makes these projects good, when they push you out of your comfort zone doing something you havn't before ! and from what youve shown, your learning quite well !
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Pottz- new techniques are good, but doing so in the midst of a project can be stressful. I appreciate the advice and encouragement. And then there are all the posted projects with explanations - interesting and helpful. Great community of woodworkers!
Use the white oak for the splines. It is good to have a contrasting color and it will match the top insert.. Also, if you plan to put a tray in the box, make the splines deeper so they stick through and create rests for the tray! As for splitting or breaking off on the thin pointed ends- any wood can do that if it is not glued in securely and it is cut with a rough cutting saw. Glue the spines in plenty good and saw them with a bit sticking out and sand them flush-- always
cheers, Jim
Cheers, Jim ........................ Variety is the spice of life...............Learn something new every day
I agree with Chuck's assessments, watch out for "chippy" woods (oak is notorious), but any thing will work. End grain showing so no good way to blend in, but the contrast will make them a feature so careful layout is needed. I always use tape over the corners before cutting, makes for a perfect masking to protect from squeezeout. Excess is trimmed at the bandsaw (as close as I dare), then either the belt sander or sanding block to level up. Corner to center only to avoid flaking off the "peak".
Well, given how I had to place the splines (narrow lid where I was limited on size to avoid hitting the floating panel...I know, poor planning!), I used walnut to avoid calling too much attention. In other situations I agree that the contrast is a good design feature.
In the past I put glue on the splines, but this time I put the glue in the slot and the used a small brush to ensure glue on all surfaces before sliding in the spline. That seemed a little less messy. Since I'm getting so much helpful info - is there any recommendations on how everyone does the glueup?
This is the saw I use. I believe it is designed for this use with a flat surface/teeth.
That’s a fine saw for removing the excess barb, just be careful as you cut since it’s prone to chipping off the corner of the grain allows it. As has been mentioned, cut from the raw side in. As has also been mentioned, blue tape is a good idea. I’d mask off the sides with tape before using the flush cut saw so you don’t accidentally knick the side with an errant tooth. Sand to finish.
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
For gluing, I will squirt a small amount into the groove and spread it down in a bit with a thin stick. Next I'll smear some on the sides of the spline to fully cover and press it in. The glue will be pushed around, so with the slot, it'll get pushed into the groove and the spline will have it pushed out to the corner peak.
I'll always clamp to push the spline into the slot by having a flat on the spline and a small 45 degree corner block for the inside of the box. I hate it when there is the glue-filled gap showing so this makes sure it is pressed in to the max.
Of course one can cross clamp in the spines from just the outside, but I find that that extra minute or more of gluing up two splines before clamping can let them seize up before being pressed in.
