I was debating just posting this as a comment in my existing forum thread about leveling shop floors, but decided it makes more sense as its own topic. The following is applicable to workbenches, tool stands, mobile tool stands, dedicated carts, just about any furniture one might build for their woodshop. In the sketch above, you’ll see four workbenches with slight differences, grouped into two categories. As for the differences:
- Workbench #1 sits on a sheet on the floor - Workbench #2 sits on a continuous rim on the floor - Workbench #3 has four individual legs - Workbench #4 has distinct feet, just not 4, in this case two big ones.
- Category A is any case where there is a uniform/singular contact between the ground and bottom - Category B is any case where there are multiple separate connections touching the ground.
So how do you all prefer to design the contact surface on the bottom of your shop furnishings? My current thoughts on the matter are a bit scatterbrained, but figure I’ll share them:
Style 1: Assuming you want under-countertop storage of any kind, Style #1 lends itself to getting the most storage space out of the design, since the bottom shelf is directly against the floor. This version seems the most susceptible to issues with uneven floors or teetering on debris, like woodchips, causing issues if trapped beneath the contact surface. And if you choose to add leveling feet and/or casters, could nullify the storage efficiency I mentioned as a pro.
Style 2: Seems like a diluted version of style 1? You can lay a plywood sheet across the supports, and you’ve only raised the bottom of your storage cubby by the width of a 2x4 (or whatever lumber you used for the bottom cross braces). Because its only a rim contacting the ground as opposed to a full plane, if you had it on retractable casters and unknowingly lowered it onto a wood scrap or something as mentioned above, provided that obstacle isn’t directly below the rim, it shouldn’t be an issue. With that said, it still seems highly susceptible to issues with less than perfect shop floors. Assuming you wanted to incorporate leveling feet and/or casters, it may be slightly easier to do so than it would be on style 1.
Style 3: This style seems the most “furniture-like”. Having 4 discrete points of contact may still allow for wobble when the floor is less than perfect, but doesn’t seem as prone to it as either of the previous styles. Importantly, this style also seems to lend itself to being used with those screw-type leveling feet better than any of the rest, just drill holes in the center of each of the 4 wood legs. One downside is by virtue of propping the body up off the ground, your lowest shelf height is higher, reducing the amount of under-top storage with comparable countertop height relative to styles 1&2.
Style 4: Depends on the exact leg solution used. In this case, the two big feet, it just seems like an overbuilt, less precise version of style 3. Reduces the contact area down to multiple discrete points, so probably better than styles 1&2 at handling uneven surfaces, but if the floor isn’t smooth beneath those two beams, it may wobble. While leveling feet can certainly be attached, it’s not quite as intuitive ‘just add a leveling foot to each existing leg’ as style 3 is. Also raises the bottom shelf higher, same downside as 3.
Category A: Likely simple to build, lend themselves to maximizing storage space in a small shop, but seem more susceptible to issues with non-level floors. Category B: By reducing the total bottom contact surface area and distributing it across multiple points, may reduce issues with wobble. May also integrate better with leveling feet for outright solving the issue. But add a bit of complexity to the build and lose storage-efficiency to the inherent clearance off the ground.
For some of my upcoming builds (including but not limited to: mobile router table, flip top tool cart for jointer/planer, mobile lathe stand) given that I’m operating out of a small shop with less-than-perfect floors, I’m mostly debating between styles 2 and 3, and will be including casters for sure, and likely leveling feet too. It seems like adding leveling feet would largely make the differences between styles 2 and 3 insignificant, although then it becomes a question of which style is easier to integrate them into? Would appreciate opinions relating to preferences on that front.
Pros and cons with each, #1 is probably the first I'd dismiss for many of the reasons you mention. All have issues with an uneven floor, #3 would probably sit tight, but torque out a bit and make the top a bit uneven (twisted).
With legs, if the load is low enough, you could add threaded inserts into the floor ends and use threaded feet. Would only take a minute to screw at most two feet in/out to get level and firm.
@splintergroup exactly my thinking! With that said, I would assume that, if planned properly, there’d probably be a way of incorporating threaded leveling feet into style 2 as well, not just style 3, right?
@Splintergroup Should a separate nut be used with those that you like screw up against the top? or is the friction between the t-nut and the threaded rod usually enough on its own?
Also, would you go for regular leveling feet: Or would you opt for the kind that have a ball socket in the base so that they can swivel how they contact your floor? I’m torn because on one hand swivel to match floor indents sounds good but on the other hand it could end up being frustrating or overengineered in practice.
The swivel parts would seem to better sit flush with any slopes on the floor and having the hex shaft would make adjusting easier (fingers, wrench, pliers). I'd probably go for threaded couplers too as opposed to the T-nuts. As long as possible to minimize any slop and rocking. I'd think you could adjust these easily enough with just fingers since having to break out a wrench could get old. Just a drill hole with the OD and depth of the coupler, then a clearance pilot for the shaft size of the foot threads. Goal is minimize side to side wobble of the table and easy adjusting. This is what you see on many mobile bases except they usually just have a diagonal plate at the corners and have nuts top/bottom to tighten up the feet.
Threaded leveling is the optimum solution.... however, 101% of woodies opt for mobility of wheels if for no other than that pathetic excuse of space.... everyone seems to own those. With wheels it seems like the only obvious solution is #1... We never have enough storage and unless you put your stuff on the floor and lift the stand over it, a shelf seems like an obvious solution. Lock the wheels and I will never recommend the butterfly locks, and you only need to chock one wheel up with a wedgie unless you opt for any of the available lowering options which will take you back to "threaded leveling" of some sorts. The obvious solution is hard to ascretain unless talking about specifics... I've heard of people poo-pooing wheels on lathes. I've had mine on wheels for over 12 years and had no issues... but then again I have never had and never will have intentions of turning large (or small) bowls that when unballanced, will send the whole bloody room into a spin let alone the lathe.
My small jet lathe had many incarcerations of flip down rest etc,
and that was over an even floor... however, over the years finished up on wheels without the flips. The "outrigger" provides a little more stability and permits lowering the COG... clearance over mats is the new conundrum.
If your floor is uneven, move the bloody thing... the cart not the floor... a few inchesmillimeters, OK, maybe centimeters can find you a sweet even spot... or wedge it... easier than sanding the floor level.
Personally I'd opt for some heavy duty mobile bases. Will cost a few shekels more but you don't have to give a toss about the design of the cabinet... provides mobility and has some threaded levelers to boot... they also keep the COG down. Trust me... my floor is more cracked and uneven than most old guy's "sit down cheeks".
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD