Ross Leidy

My homework prior to making the staves was to work out how to join them at 120 degrees to each other and allow for lamp pipe to pass through the ce...

Arthur Jacobs designed many interesting and unusual lamps for Modeline in the 50's and 60's.  This particular floor lamp design has always caught m...

With a bit of finish, the clock will be complete and ready for use.  For the hub, I wanted to retain the whiteness of the holly, so I finished it w...

In keeping with the all-wood theme, I thought I'd see if I could make the wood hands as well.   To mimic the black hands of the original, I found j...

Before I can apply finished, I need to take care of a couple things - address the gap in the hub veneer and plug the holes in the end of the spikes...

I have a large selection of veneer due to having made custom table tennis paddles for years.  But for this clock where the form is the star (litera...

The hub is built from 5 disks cut from scrap plywood on the CNC.  The layer that will be the face of the clock is a full disk with a recess for the...

This jig will be used to cut the radius on the base of each spike using a router table with a tall pattern bit installed. I started with a plywood...

I searched for "prior art" for cutting compound tapers like these, but I couldn't find anything that did what I needed.  This is the idea I came up...

For a while, I've had in my head to build a replica of a George Nelson's sunburst clock.  Designed in the late 40's, it definitely has that "atomic...

Glue-up was simple enough - a couple strap clamps and one bar clamp over cork pads to pull the joints tight for the back stretcher.  [20251023-IMG...

I used a 3/8" radius round over bit to shape the stretchers.  To avoid tear-out where cutting (nearly) end grain in some areas, I made multiple pas...