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re: OpArt Lidded Box
Thank you Pottz and Earl!
I always hated darker stain on oak/ash, never seems to get into the deep grain lines and pores. Then there is the "enhancement" where the larger grain areas get more "contrasty". In my opinion, I like oak grain, just not the contrast so I try to keep the tone even.
The one neat thing I find useful about fuming is that it penetraits deep. This allows for sanding and some after work to balance the color. The best thing for me is it is a cheap way to really "stain" white oak. I've got another DVD cabinet project in recycled red oak for the same client and they want something darker. The previous version I toned the lacquer with TransTint. This time I might go ahead and try the dye directly, but at $20/bottle it eats up the profits fast.
I always hated darker stain on oak/ash, never seems to get into the deep grain lines and pores. Then there is the "enhancement" where the larger grain areas get more "contrasty". In my opinion, I like oak grain, just not the contrast so I try to keep the tone even.
The one neat thing I find useful about fuming is that it penetraits deep. This allows for sanding and some after work to balance the color. The best thing for me is it is a cheap way to really "stain" white oak. I've got another DVD cabinet project in recycled red oak for the same client and they want something darker. The previous version I toned the lacquer with TransTint. This time I might go ahead and try the dye directly, but at $20/bottle it eats up the profits fast.
