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re: Making the cuts
If you need to do mulyi passes, try the lamination upside down.
? Not exactly sure what, but if you mean making a veneered panel then cutting parts out, yes. With the good veneer on the bottom, the final pass of the laser just poking through leaves a nice clean line whereas the top is a bit crustier.
My router templates are usually 6 mm "dark" masonite hardboard. Dark is so the laser will work faster, doesn't like light colored surfaces for cutting thicker stuff.
The 6mm is about right for a pilot bearing straight bit. There is always a gap between the bearing and cutting edge and this has enough thickness so I can get a full cut and still have enough template for the bearing to make contact.
If I need thicker I'd just take the template to some thicker plywood and make a thicker template.
Compared to a CO2 laser, mine is a lot like your new micro-mark saw compared to a 3hp cabinet saw. Nowhere the brute power, maybe a bit more finesse in some situations, but completely different class.
Maybe a better analogy for you would be Festool compared to Bosch?, Leica compare to Clack? ðŸ¤
My router templates are usually 6 mm "dark" masonite hardboard. Dark is so the laser will work faster, doesn't like light colored surfaces for cutting thicker stuff.
The 6mm is about right for a pilot bearing straight bit. There is always a gap between the bearing and cutting edge and this has enough thickness so I can get a full cut and still have enough template for the bearing to make contact.
If I need thicker I'd just take the template to some thicker plywood and make a thicker template.
Compared to a CO2 laser, mine is a lot like your new micro-mark saw compared to a 3hp cabinet saw. Nowhere the brute power, maybe a bit more finesse in some situations, but completely different class.
Maybe a better analogy for you would be Festool compared to Bosch?, Leica compare to Clack? ðŸ¤
