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Jim Jakosh
Hi George, I have the bug to make a few more too. I found some interesting methods that I'll try when I get home. I could never get the straight cut on the BS. I use pushers and feather boards at home on the TS and they work real well.
I didn't either prior to a class I just took with Alex Snodgrass. I have been setting up my bandsaw for resawing as he suggests for a while now, he has several sources for bandsaw tips, and videos, but going forward he is starting to slowly retire, so his personal site. "Bandsaw Life" and his Facebook, or YouTube accounts will likely be the best places to catch all of what he is doing. He also has a Facebook page, just about bandsaw boxes, though there are quite a few Reindeer cutters there as well. I'm finding them about as addictive as the boards.
Anyhow I found through him it's mostly about the blade, but coupled with his set up for drift free cuts, you can get as accurate with your bandsaw as your TS. You just know there is that slight frizzyness (is that a word?) fuzzy edge, that is easily scuffed off with a light sanding. Blades should be same as a good resaw, as wide as your saw will allow, but at least a 1/2" on a 14" saw, and 2 to 3 TPI, set up with good tension, and you will be amazed. I had always just resawn that way, and never gave a thought to ripping, for me it was a DOH!!!!! moment. Thinking hell, I've been here for years, and just never thought to rip. On bevels having the table tilted to 30, or more degrees actually causes the stock to stay put, down in it's little valley, and all you need is a slow steady feed, and straight ahead. Amazingly straight cuts.
I'm hiding next to Alex's left side in our group pic. It was a fun bunch. No I wasn't trying to be a kiss ass, they told us where to stand, and Tony put me there.
