Nice box for first try Barb. They have a lot of rules, and for 90% of them being square to the blade is a thing. Not being can make for some strange fits. That is unless that first cut is supposed to be angled as it is in this box, then ya gotta go with it, or it messes up. DAMHIKT.
So it is about how the pattern is laid out, but every type or style is kinda the same, but for it's one gotcha.
If you do FACEBOOK, look up, Alex Snodgrass Bandsaw Boxes, it is a busy group, and some really sharp minds. They are all about bandsaw boxes, and they can be a scream to make, or frustrate you to no end. If you go to Alex's group, look at the very top, and under "files" some nice folks have downloaded some plans/patterns. Another site I like a lot is from a guy who makes these plans for scroll saw use, but many are easily adaptable to work for a bandsaw. Some not so much, but it's a huge catalog, and they are free to download. I sent him some $$$$ via paypal, I use his site so often, but technically it's free. I am also doing more scrolling, and am currently smitten with making baskets, he has a bunch of patterns, with them because they nest, a blade angle is mandatory, so they will open and close.
On the fronts, and backs I usually use a 3/16" blade, with 4TPI, and I have a Carter small blade guide on my 14" saw, and it helps do the tight turns you sometimes need. I use my 18" Rikon, set up to resaw for all my front and back slab cuts, takes them off pretty slick. A trick is DO NOT sand them, and hold off gluing them back on until you are done with the all of the inside cuts. Then without sanding, approximate the back, so you are certain you have it facing exactly as it came off, and glue it back on, they nest into the same saw marks, and once you've held it a minute, a clamp will just keep it there until the glue dries. This is the best time to be using Speed set glue. Not sure why, but Amazon is 12 bucks on this, and Woodcraft is 6, same 8oz size? I'm lucky enough to have a store in Dayton, and Cinci where I can get mine.
This can be scaled up or down for size, seems the girls like it. I know all of the Niece's have one. Sanding them is a PIA though. :-)
Handles are another aspect that can become a lot of small work. An alternative is a hole in the back, where you can use a finger to poke the drawer out, instead of messing with a handle at all. One of the reasons I like them so much, so many different ways they can be done.
Many times the drawers are "tippy", and nothing you can do will change that. When that happens you may need to either use small shims to correct a droop, use magnets to do it, or just a bit of weight to balance them when sitting in the box. It becomes an each type of box design, may need a different fix to make them look right.
My last tip is sometimes taking out the drawer, makes the box look a lot bigger than the drawer you are left with to fill the opening. You can cut the box up the middle, and side to side, and doing this will shrink the box by the width of your blades kerf, each of 4 pieces, so kinda shrinks the box, to fit the drawer. As always try to make all the cuts into the grain, to camouflage them as much as possible.
Also make sure to keep track of which part came from where, and which direction. You will make more mistakes that way than any other if not, and talk about some funky boxes if you start gluing them in the wrong places.
