AC Six Part 4 Fenders

I have completed the fenders for the first model.  I decided that I would create the fenders for the model to be painted since I am using poplar for most of the work and any loss or remake requirements will not waste more costly material.  The entire fender assembly is really not that difficult but it does require concentration and a mindful stance on making the Right and Left components correctly.  Dutchy has mentioned that since the AC Six is a Brit auto, he purposely placed the steering wheel on the RIGHT side of the car, so if you are in the habit of using "Driver" and " Passenger" to differentiate L and R, be very careful that what you are doing is what you mean to do.

The rear and front fenders are, at least for me, exercises in compound scrolling or bandsawing.  By that I mean that you will put together the material and then cut it once, replace the cutoff material with hot glue or double stick tape and then cut out the second profile.  Once done, you peel it like an onion and you have the needed piece ready to sand and fit.

Below, you see the rear fender blanks with the template attached.  The other template will be afixed to the side of the blank after completing the first cut on the templates shown.

Here is the blank on the scrollsaw ready for the first cut.  I used a #12, ST blade at a medium speed.  Don't force it; let the blade do its work.  Now, I used a #12 but a 10,11 will also work.  You could also do this work on the bandsaw with a 3/16" or 1/4" fine tooth blade.  If you are not sure of your consistency and accuracy, cut outside the line and then when all is done, sand to the line.  I try to wait on that until all the cutting is done and then I peel the parts off to sand them. 

The reason I do not sand the parts now is that I want to get a tight a fit as I can when I put the cut section back on the block.    Replace the cut off portion and place the final template on the side of the block, making sure it is oriented correctly ( either L or R). 

Here is a view showing the attached profile template on the side after it's been initially cut out.  Since the block will be fulling supported on the scrollsaw table, I go ahead and profile sand where needed to the line and then reattach the piece to the bottom and then cut out the rest of the profile.

When all the scrolling is done, you can peel the parts off and get the shaped rear fender.

Here are all the sections and the L (Passenger’s side) rear fender.

The front fenders are not as complex but the technique is the same.  Take note that the R (Driver's side) front fender has a template to create the wheel well for the spare tire.  I'll wait until I have the tires completed so that I can fit the well to match the tire but how you proceed is up to you.  Cutting the wheel well will be easier IF you do not have the fender attached to the running board, thereby giving you free access to cut as needed.

The only other part i'll mention at this time is the inside fender piece (Part 13C).  You will need a R & L version, and Dutchy has kindly provided both templates on Page 37 of the plan.  It's really not a difficult piece to make and the only bit of caution I will provide is dealing with the rounding over of the profile.   First, using an awl, mark the placement of the headlight receiving hole on the EDGE of the roughed out piece.  It is clearly located on the template.  Then drill the hole using the bit of your choice.  I used an 1/8" bit, but the plan calls for a 3mm.  Anyway, after that is done, it's time to profile the piece.  There is a round over profile and you can either hand sand it or use a small router round over  bit.  I chose to go the router table route and used a 1/16" round over bit.  Attach the piece to a larger block of wood to keep you safe and the piece secure.

Here is the piece on the block and ready to shape.  Note that I mention the starter pin shown above.  It's really a safety issue and that pin will give the needed support to safely present the piece to the spinning bit.  Support the piece first on the pin and then move it into the bit.  Once the bit and piece are in contact, smoothly move the piece through the cut and all is done.  Do the same for the other piece.  A bit of touch up hand sanding and you're ready to glue the inner fender to the inside of the front fender.

This is how the finished shaped Part 13C looks after its routed.  I left the piece on the block to hand sand it.  Be careful removing it from the double stick tape since the tape gets stronger the longer it's in contact and this piece can be easily broken. 

When the body work has been finished, it is time to put the fender sections together and fit to the undercarriage and body.  The last major piece of fabrication work is cutting the wheel well to accept the spare tire on the Right (Driver's side) front fender.  I mentioned earlier that this should be done before the fender assembly is completed to make the cutting easier.

The first step is to mark out the location and size of the well as shown in the plans.  You can use the detailed specs on Page 31 and also the full scale schematic drawing on Page 49 of the plans.   Note the profile of the tire on both ends of the well.  This will help hold the tire in place as well as provide a cleaner fit.  I made the well in two steps.

STEP 1.

After the center portion is removed, it is time to work on the end profiles.  Make sure you have a tire available to insure a good fit. This is a "take your time" kind of task.  Take a little off and fit the tire, take a little more, and fit the tire.  :-)  You'll be glad you did.  

STEP 2

Here is the completed well with a sample tire fit.

Now the entire fender assembly can be glued together.  I let this dry over night to insure good glue adhesion.

That about does it for today's blog.  I'm about to make the tires and wheels for the Version 1 so I can start to assemble it.  There will still be some of the small parts, ie, windscreen, steering wheel, dash, lights, and license plates to do but that will be handled at the end.   I think I mentioned earlier but one version of the AC Six will not have the luggage rack and luggage.  It will have a plain rear profile like most of the photos I could find.  Version two will definitely have the rack and luggage.

Hope this is helpful.   If you have any questions or recommendations please let me know.   Have a great day.
Dave