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re: Box-Joint Jig
Yes, an older thread, but that doesn't make the content irrelevant. Box joints are still popular, and for a first time, questions probably do come up.
I box rules the day, BUT if the cost is a concern you can literally make a set size jig in an hour, 2 at the most. Matter of fact, unless I plan a lot of cuts, my Ibox stays on it's shelf, and I just build a new set sized jig, simply due to set up time. I suppose if I did use the Ibox more often I would speed that up, but.....
The key there is make sure your "pin" is exactly the same as the blades width, the "pins" height should ultimately be just taller than it is wide, too tall ,and you will just end up with a toothy joint, or have to cut/sand/plane them flush. Next you have to set that distance "the gap" exactly the same as the width of the blade, and the "pin" if you accomplish that, not really hard to do, you may need to shift it a pinch because you are gnats ass tight. and adding glue can make it almost too tight.
Other variables with ANY jig is stock works best if it is actually 4 square. IOW wonky uneven, unparallel faces will give wonky results. You can use 2 different thicknesses of sides, versus faces, but you have to allow for that in depth of cut. Any changes from same thicknesses also bring with a must to stay awake and look several times before cutting.
I box rules the day, BUT if the cost is a concern you can literally make a set size jig in an hour, 2 at the most. Matter of fact, unless I plan a lot of cuts, my Ibox stays on it's shelf, and I just build a new set sized jig, simply due to set up time. I suppose if I did use the Ibox more often I would speed that up, but.....
The key there is make sure your "pin" is exactly the same as the blades width, the "pins" height should ultimately be just taller than it is wide, too tall ,and you will just end up with a toothy joint, or have to cut/sand/plane them flush. Next you have to set that distance "the gap" exactly the same as the width of the blade, and the "pin" if you accomplish that, not really hard to do, you may need to shift it a pinch because you are gnats ass tight. and adding glue can make it almost too tight.
Other variables with ANY jig is stock works best if it is actually 4 square. IOW wonky uneven, unparallel faces will give wonky results. You can use 2 different thicknesses of sides, versus faces, but you have to allow for that in depth of cut. Any changes from same thicknesses also bring with a must to stay awake and look several times before cutting.
