I'm working on a design for shoe storage for a friend. Not sure if we will go with this route, but if I angle 1/2 inch plywood shelves, how would I create a snug fitting face board? Attempted drawing what I mean...
Barb, you are going to be a Pro at angles once done. Your flag case, now this. :-)
When I am not sure of an angle, I'll often use paper or cardboard to make pieces I can move around to get the look I want. Then I'll use an angle finder gauge, there are many types on the market, I like these.
Let us know what else you need. Seeing it in your head is the hardest part sometimes. Being able to see into yours to understand which part you don't understand is the hardest part for us.
Here the "my head" part - I typically do dados with multiple cuts on my table saw, sneaking up on the fit. I don't see how I could do this with an angled blade...well, maybe if I cut the plywood at 45 (so not quite like Bentlyj's diagram).
If your going to do multiple cuts you would have to make your first cut (at full depth) then move you fence and lower the blade. You will have to sneak up on the height, raising your blade a little at a time, until the bottom of the cut matches the first cut. I would rather set up my dado blade to the right width and then run the full cut in one run. Side note, you can set the width of your dado blade while the blade is in the 90 position to make it somewhat easier to run sample pieces until you get it right.
Figuring out how to do something you have never done is what makes a good challenge.
I'll typically do what Bently first proposes, just angle the dado set in the TS and cut. There is the issue of watching the thin area at the point as to not make a weak area.
Bumping up/down a narrow blade as you move over to get the width will leave a rough bottom, but a chisel can take care of squaring it up (a lot of work) Alternatively you can just do the cut, then using some scraps of the poplar, bevel the edge to match your shelf angle then rip cut it off to make a fill strip to angle the dado cut, glue into the cut and you'll have your flat.
Ditto. Set the dado width, set the angle, then make some test cuts on cutoffs and double check it’s what you want.
Alternately, you could follow your original plan with a single width blade, cutting the full dado, then roughly clean up the bottom with a chisel. After glue up go back and band the edges and you’ll never see it. More steps, a different look, but another way to skin it…
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
Hopefully we are going a different route as this seems daunting. I haven't ever angled a dado set (and to be honest, have not had my dado blades in use for 5 years or so!) so would likely need to do splintergroup's second option. Simple projects are never simple.
Also, this is all getting painted so that impacts some aspects (potentially).
Bentlyj - your signature line is so you! Thank you for that added option. I really need to learn "design software" as I tend to sketch out my thoughts on scrap paper, or when I get serious, I use graph paper. The former in particular often presents me with "learning opportunities"
Corelz125 - painting definitely changes things. It appears they may want to do a design where the shelves angle down toward the back so no front lip will be needed. We are going to keep a little space between the shelves and back to avoid dirt, etc getting trapped.
