Applying Rubio prior to glue-up?

1640
9
I'm working on a media cabinet that I plan to finish with Rubio Monocoat.  It will have one drawer opening that will be tricky to apply finish to after glue-up, so I think I'll need to apply finish there prior to glue-up.   Has anyone done this with Rubio?  I'll tape-off the areas that will later be glued.  It seems like the wax/oil finish would prevent any glue squeeze-out from adhering to the pre-finished sections, which should make clean-up pretty simple?  Has anyone had any experience doing this?
I'm surprised a gent of your expertise is leaving yourself open to hacksters that may appear to shoot from the hip,


Cannot comment on Rubio as I haven't spoken to him in the pub lately....

I do buff a lot of my work and often mask over the potential glue line(s)... I've had hit and miss success depending on glue used.

Recently I have ignored glue lines and after the "finish" I only use CA.  You haven't mentioned the full size of your project though if your a musichead, it may not be a mini... though even if you did, I couldn't really give foolproof technical advice. Nevertheless, in my limited experience, I have found that CA has been my best salvation.... I stay clear of epoxy glues as I have it oozing out of every orifices the days following.

Are there dominos, biscuits, pocketholes, dovetails and a few other buildings features in the mix?  

I have found that CA will hold past all my requirements, however, I have no idea what it's half-life is, but I'm just hoping it will outlive me.  I have applied it on large surfaces, but my thought of large may differ with your project.

If your finish sticks to the surface, I again recommend CA, if it doesn't I recommend dowels/dominos/biscuite/prayers.

After all that BS above... I have found that CA will beat the Beall Buffing system, tung oil, danish oil and Min-Wax WOP....

Maybe someone may actually offer some expert advice.

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

i think you should be fine ross as long as the area that gets glue stays bare ?

working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

Thanks, gents.  The panel joinery will be dominos, and I’ll likely use TB3 for the long open time.  I’m working on the mortises now, and I have some work to complete before I need to decide whether to pre-finish or not.  Maybe I’ll start a blog series to provide some context.  
dont stress it ross, it will all work fine ! you know what your doing !

working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

Yeah, I’m not sweating it. I was mainly interested in any comments on pre-finishing with Rubio specifically or oil/wax finishes in general.  But I’ll have my own personal experience soon enough.  😀
it's gonna be fine. i think the situation would be the same for any finish in general. as long as you have bare wood to bare wood ross you'll have a bond. i think youve got it figured out just fine. you always impress my friend ! i expect no less on this one 😎

working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

I have not used Rubio but I have used paste wax before glue up to prevent glue squeeze out from sticking in hard to reach areas.  I have both masked off the glue surface and also simply drawn a line and just made sure I didn't get any wax on the glue surface.  It made the glue pop right off.  

--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

Interesting.  I think you can easily wipe off glue from Monocoat.  However if you let it dry it will probably stick.

I have to try this.

Petey

I’d think it would well for keeping the glue off where you don’t want it, but I’m intrigued by the idea that the glue will adhere to the Rubio if you let it cure. 

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".