About a year ago I decided to go ahead and get a Nova DP. I didn't really NEED it because a have a nearly new old Craftsman floor model Radial DP, what a handy machine. Several features on the Nova are just neat as all get out with the exception of all drill press faults. Cranking up and down is a (to me) a real PIA but when making 10 or 15 cheese slicers half a dozen times a year, cranking really is a pain. So I decided to check utube and found a bunch of favorite methods to mechanize the lowering and raising of a dp table. I studied and studied and even bought a pair of tapered bevel gears and considered buying a drive unit. Then I looked at the construction involved to be able to use that type of apparatus. Didn't want to do all that soooo my feeble lazy mind took over and realized I already had everything necessary to mechanize my dp table. A deWalt 20v drill, 6 point 3/8 drive deep socket, 5/16" hex to 3/8" square drive and finally a 1/4 -20 hex head bolt. Drill and tap the socket - job done and up and down we go. I did find out that my 12v Bosch drill/driver worked as long as it had a full charge but I just leave the DeWalt hang there and use my hammer drill if I need a drill.
Nathan, you don’t have to modify the dp at all. The shaft on the dp should be 1/2” with a flat surface. The 6 point socket fits perfectly and the screw bottoms on the flat. No destruction to anything except the 3/8 drive socket. Just want to be sure you drill on a flat area of the socket
This seems like mana from heaven (or moonshine from down below)...
I've struggled with my Voyager's crank from the day I purchased it. I managed to get some respite from this foreign Jet arm I picked up somewhere, I tried to fabricate a connection that had me thinking what was I thinking, Your solution seems the best kid on the block... though being an imperial ignoramus and bamboozled with all your fractional quotes, is this socket, the 3/8" you were referring to? Being imperial, would it object to a metric (6mm) tap?
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
the 3/8" you were referring to? Being imperial, would it object to a metric (6mm) tap? LBD -the 3/8" is the socket drive (ie: 1/4", 38", 1/2") or 9.5mm drive and I don't know the diameter of your crank shaft on the DP but I checked mine with a digital caliper and it was a little over .500. I filed it just enough to get a 6 point socket on but not so much that the factory handle didn't fit and work. I then drilled and tapped the socket to accept a 1/4-20 screw to use as the set screw
I love my Voyager drill press except for one thing. I do not like the on..off buttons. I really would prefer a paddle type switch. Are there any alternatives??
I have several tables that I can set on my drill press table. One is 2-1/2" tall ( ~64 mm) and one 4" tall (~102 mm). I use these a lot instead of cranking up and down.
Recycle 1943 replied about 5 hours ago new the 3/8" you were referring to? Being imperial, would it object to a metric (6mm) tap? LBD -the 3/8" is the socket drive (ie: 1/4", 38", 1/2") or 9.5mm drive and I don't know the diameter of your crank shaft on the DP but I checked mine with a digital caliper and it was a little over .500.
All you imperials will now appreciate my insanity/confusion... I have a reading issue and when it needs to be evaluated... Houston (the pottzy NASA), we have a problem.
My NOVA is the same as yours, except mine is in downtown Churchill, so the .500m is lost to me, but I'm going to assume that is close to 12.7mm. With the "round" shape, I never considered using a socket... though tapping and bolting it makes total sense. I now have to find a dedicated drill to drive it.
Birdseye49 replied about 5 hours ago new I love my Voyager drill press except for one thing. I do not like the on..off buttons. I really would prefer a paddle type switch. Are there any alternatives??
What I hate about my Voyager is that it's not made for short rrrses. My neck gets sore looking up at the screen (its on a mobile base)... and I always forget my autostart... when I lower the quill to set depth.
I bought mine off the first production line (2017) and had a few issues, however, several firmware upgrades fixed my qualms... Have they improved the warning beep volume?
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
I love my Voyager drill press except for one thing. I do not like the on..off buttons. I really would prefer a paddle type switch. Are there any alternatives??
I'm not all that happy with them because of the lack positive on/off snap of a paddle or even a toggle but they work just fine.
My NOVA is the same as yours, except mine is in downtown Churchill, so the .500m is lost to me, but I'm going to assume that is close to 12.7mm. With the "round" shape, I never considered using a socket... though tapping and bolting it makes total sense. I now have to find a dedicated drill to drive it.
LBD - DON"T RUN TO THE STORE YET I just took the socket off - it is a 3/8" drive 14mm socket. I checked the shaft and right now it's .545 so the 1/2" socket will not work.
LBD - I’d bet you have a digital caliper. Use it and check the shaft against the socket then get a good file out. Should only take a couple minutes to get it fitting good and tite
Sorry about all the confusion - totally my fault for not writing stuff down
Before I did anything, I'd mike the crank shaft just to see where and which way to go. I guess the real workhorse is the flat surface on the shaft and the screw you install in the socket. As a matter of fact, I used a Phillips screw head for my anchor screw -
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