I finally caved and made a few pens but now I have a finishing dilemma - will blow provide a suitable finish for the stock or should I try a rattle can of gloss lacquer ? I do want a gloss finish ( if possible ) close to the fore stick but, I'll take what I can get. I've tried a finish with a foam pad but I get but get brush marks *&%$#))(*&^%$$#@ Any suggestions ?
A spray lacquer works, You'll obviously have to mask off the non-wood areas. A gloss wiping poly might be easier. It is thinner than lacquer so is less likely to show brush marks. It just takes more coats to build up. After putting on several layers of finish, you can use a polishing compound or sanding wax (like Acks) to polish out any finishing defects. I do this with turned items with both lacquer and poly.
But personally, a gun stock pen should have a more satin finish as a real gun stock would. My two cents.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
Thanks Nathan I was playing with some blo on a hunk of purple heart to see what it would do. Not sure how it happened but I have 2 full gallons of blo and probably should figure out a use for it.
i now do all my pens with spray cam lacquer, but on the lather turning slowly to avoid drips, then after several coats i polish out with micro mesh. you could do it but id say go with wipe on like nathan suggested.
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Alex and pottz They are Penn state kits You have to make the fore stock and it comes with a metal butt stock that sux so I fashioned my own out of the same timber I used for the front Never did any carving before so these were quite the learning curve
The secret with BLO is to only apply enough to cover the wood on the first coat and then wipe off the rest after about 10 minutes and buff it. Subsequent coats go on super thin and need to be buffed after an hour or so to remove any excess. Buff it rigorously enough that the friction generates a little heat and the BLO will cure more quickly. It still it takes at least 3 or 4 coats (or more) to get a good protective finish and it is my go-to finish for tool handles. It provides a silky smooth finish that feels great in the hand so should be good for a pen too. I actually use Tried and True Varnish oil which is BLO with a little bit of varnish but the application technique is the same.
Of course for a gun stock pen, I would be tempted to use Casey True Oil.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
BLO will provide a fine finish. As Nathan said, thin coats, wipe off excess after an hour, and buff them out the next day. I use a light buffing with 0000 steel wool after the second coat. A couple of my Mosin Nagants have about 10 coats of BLO and look really pretty for something with a wartime birch stock. It’s not a super-hard finish, but it will dent rather than chip if abused.
I thought I made that rifle pen before, but couldn't remember it being so interesting... turns out it was another brand/style, however, I was very impressed with your stock. Hope you plan to post a project on it.
Years ago, for odd shapes (and some normal) I used to dip, let soak and drip dry under cover to keep the dust off,
this did eliminate stroke marks... though that was probably b4 I discovered WOP.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
Dick, there was a time when my #1 finish was 1/3 each of BLO, MS, and Poly. It could be brushed, wiped, or sprayed, and like Nathan said it was a build up of several light coats. You could pretty easily get 3 coats a day on, and after 3, it could survive some pretty rough handling. I would apply 2 coats, then knock down the nubs/nibs, whatever those raised up bumps are called. Then wiped it off with an almost dry rag with MS, to get rid of residual dust. Then applied the 3rd coat. Most times I didn't go further. Almost bulletproof finish, could easily take the handling you would expect on a pen.
Typing this, and thinking about all the different places it is on things around the house, a lot of them. All of them are wearing well, especially the shelves in the pantry, and those take a serious beating daily. Plus using it on them is the first time whatever finish I used DIDN't cause heavier cans to stick to the shelf. Dries fast, dries hard, and takes a beating real well.
I'm pretty sure I would still be using it today, but I quit science, and now just buy a can of Arm R Seal, and I believe it's just about the same stuff.
On the wrong coast I believe Sam Maloof used up his Blo mixed with Tung oil, and wax on a 1/3's basis.
BTW, those guns are pretty cool looking, just not sure how you hold it to write? I bet in Ohio they would fly off the shelf at a sale.
LBD - I guess I have a one way mind process. When I get into building/creating something, the camera doesn't even enter the fray. It only comes to mind when I realize I need a picture so I can refresh my memory should I decide to try the same project again.
