I'm continually detecting new owners of lasers and also believe that many are using the Lightburn software which apparently is a great bit of kip with a relatively easy learning curve. I have no idea of it, even had to use spell checker to spell it, so I may be blowing the wrong trumpet, lightheavyburn.
Not sure about the level of newcomers, however, I came across this video that demonstrates how the chap uses lightburn to create a laser job. While there are many such out there, I found him to be quite informative and simple to understand... any newbie to lasers could do worse than spend 22 minutes watching this video,
It is a basic job, but well explained and can be adapted to more complex exercises.
I apologise if I'm treading on hallowed ground.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
Lightburn is a great program…it’ll do a lot more than most folks think if you take the time to learn it. I don’t know it all that well, but when I want to do something unique with the laser I figure out how to put it into words and google it with ’lightburn’ and usually get a very useable answer…great program!
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
First off, a bit about ACutAboveWoodworking. The segment is created by a gentleman in Canada and has been on for 12 years or so. He is terrific about sharing his knowledge and showing basically how to create all sorts of items in his shop. He is knowledgeable and truly eager to share, and to learn from the comments of those who watch his "show". I eagerly await each week's Tuesday and Friday presentations. Last year, he presented a 21 part build of the T&J Dump Truck and Pup Trailer. A fantastic group of videos.
OK, now my $0.02 on after market software programs. Lightburn is a terrific tool and as some have said, it is time consuming to learn all the ins and outs, but, once you do, there is probably nothing worth doing on your laser that you can't achieve. Now that said, I started out on an xTool D1Pro 10W laser using XTool's Creative Space. It gets you up quick but it's pretty klugey and there's a lot that is harder to do on it because of the lack of "tools". Enter Lightburn. Taking the time to learn it will increase your laser chops immeasurably. The problem with using the manufacturer's CAD/CAM software is that it is meant to get you up quickly and you will, as I have found out, learn bad habits from using a not so complete program. The same holds true for the CAD/CAM programs of CNC makers. Vectric products are the way to go but too many want a quick start and so use, for example, Easel Pro from Inventables. The issue is that the companies are really interested only in the hardware side of the business and never truly take the time to create a robust, innovative software package. My experience has been to start out with the less robust package but move quickly to the products of a company whose focus IS the software. You will be amazed at what you can do. One big issue with the aftermarket software is that there is usually a cost involved. So be it. With the improvements made in the out years, it more than pays to have bought the software. And you own it. It doesn't reside on the web. I like that facet too.
Watch ACutAboveWoodworking on Youtube or Facebook. It's truly worth your time. Kenny is a great guy and a terrific teacher.
Thanks for the info Dave. I’ll look him up. Always looking for more info when it comes to these support pieces of my shop work. I use my little Ortur all the time on projects…if for nothing else than a littler personalizing or something. Really adds that extra dimension.
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
As mentioned, I know nothing about Lightburn, but saw the video and though it was so well presented, it was worth sharing especially to those just starting out or considering.
There is a lot that the laser can be used for in the workshop, however, if you consider buying or already own one, try to sacrifice those extra shekels and aim for one with a cutting capacity of at least 3.175mm (preferably 6.35mm)... it will extend tour laser capabilities exponentially.... those awkward routing templates that takes time to create manually are only a few minutes print/cut away.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
The laser add to my shop is incredible. I find that I use it way more than the CNC because it allows me to personalize things in ways that even a 1/32" end mill would not do. When I did the T&J locomotive, all the number medallions and other little adds were laser generated. I love the thing. Here is a lantern I made at Christmas. 3mm baltic birch. It stands 250mm H, 165mm across. The interior is a vellum paper and I use an LED tea light as the source.
Even after 2+ years, I'm still learning new tricks with LB that can be used for some more advanced work.
Router templates are a big part of my usage and I wholly agree with getting a powerful laser from the get-go as this really opens up potential for various materials. With cutting, You can always substitute more passes for a cut if your power isn't all that high, it just takes longer. For my router templates, I like to route with 1/4" masonite as it has a good amount of meat for a bit with a pilot bearing to ride on. Problem is that stuff is hard to cut with only 10 Watts of power. Being the impatient type, I lase out a template from some thin (< 1/8") hardboard that will cut with maybe 4 passes and then use that as a template for cutting out my 1/4" working template.
0ther uses I find handy are burning in layout marks on a project (hinge locations, screw holes, etc.) Sure beats using a pencil and ruler!
LB can be used as a free trial for 30 days and that can be extended if you ask. You "buy" the software for a 1-year period that lets you use new versions as they come out. If you let it expire, you still have full use "forever", but are stuck on the latest version that came out during your year or any earlier version.
LB is designed to work with the standards used by 99% of the machines being sold, but they have some difficulties with the X-Tool lasers as X-Tool is slow/hesitant to release information as to how they can be commanded with 3rd party software. If the model is a year or more old, changes are great that LB can fully function with them. Newly released products might take a few months before full support is ready.
Papa, don't be ashamed to post your laser projects... I'm not, and if you like, I can loan you a few layers of skin.
SplinterGroup .... LB can be used as a free trial for 30 days and that can be extended if you ask. You "buy" the software for a 1-year period that lets you use new versions as they come out. If you let it expire, you still have full use "forever", but are stuck on the latest version that came out during your year or any earlier version.
Now that is more civil than bloody SketchUp... While I love the product, I refuse to go subscription (as with many other products) as when the sub runs out so does your use.
But we're not here about SU license , but laser... unless it's SUdesign for laser.
Is masonite harder than MDF? When I bought my laser and upgraded the wattage from 10W to 30W... it wasn't based on speed of cut but rather the thickness it could handle on different types of wood... I've contemplated upping the wattage to handle thicker stuff but the 5 figured shekel quote would put too much of a dent on future Fe$tool purchases... That's why I go the dowel aligned laminations... which is what you (Splinter) could do to up the 3.125mm thickness. The thing I hate about multi passes is the extra burning of the edge.
Hey Pottzy if you read this, how the hell do you use imperial if you don't know how to use the shift key on your keyboard. You should petition The Donald to change to metric to keep your shifty faith.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
duck even the simple laser i have is almost beyond my simple no tech knowledge ! cnc and more advanced lasers are way beyond my pay grade and honestly, i have no desire to get more advanced ! ive lived my 64 years without it and im sure i can finish without it ! im a craftsman and so i dont like a machine doing the work for me ! i only bought the simple laser to make logos and brands, thats it !
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Pottz .... im a craftsman and so i dont like a machine doing the work for me ! i only bought the simple laser to make logos and brands, thats it !
So we can expect a shitload of handjobs from you in the future... or you pulling more than my chain?
Anyway, the dig had nothing to do with lasers... it's getting rid of your (Yankeeland) bloody imperial. Whenever I import something I have to deal with your factions... yes factions.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
well ya got me there ducks, yes i do use power tools that do a lot of he work, i still make the tool do what i want it do ! no computer does it for me ! and im getting more and more into hand tool work ! 😏
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Pottz .... i still make the tool do what i want it do
That's my claim to fame... I also know where that elusive on/off switch is... end even how to use it... however, I do use the "manual" so I can rub it in to the hand-toolers.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
Good question, I'm not really sure? I think masonite is denser, at least in thin pieces it is quite stiff compared to MDF. Almost like layered mica with long fibers whereas MDF is sawdust. The glue used is probably less (or at least different) and makes for a decent edge IMO.
I like your method of stacking with the dowels, but if I can make use of parts that can be completely routed out (no pesky sharp inside corners), I'll do that. I've laser cut box inserts (curved finger cutouts) directly in 3/16" (4.7625 mm) maple, but hated dealing with the cooked edges. Much faster and cleaner with the template and router table pattern bit. Also same effort if I went thicker.
I'd love a good 50+ Watt CO2 with a long focal length lens for cutting thick stuff (especially plastic) as that would be useful for so much stuff, but then there are the fiber lasers which can do metal, etc.
For a lot of my puzzle pieces, I've laminated 4 x 6mm layers to get the 24mm thickness... though care still needed as while the laser cuts a perfect 6mm hole, Chinese imported dowels are not a perfect 6mm diameter.
Mine cuts 5mm perspex without issues, no melting and re-binding... that's the thickest I have though I use 4mm in my puzzles, with crisp, crystal clear edges, One thing about MDF, when I cut it it binds he glue (or whatever the physical/chemical reaction) and gives a harder edge... which I've found ideal for routing templates. Also if charring is the issue (for solids), I add 0.203mm (my kerf) to dimensions plus an allowance for scraping. Scrapes well, though need to reverse direction when scraping endgrain towards the edge.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
That is a clue as MDF has a lot more glue in its composition. Diode lasers choke on that. Same with plastic except the wavelength of the diode (blue) just passes through the clear whereas clear is opaque to a CO2 so the cuts are good.I watched some videos on air assist and the guy was using a CO2 on 3/4" MDF. It cut very clean and fast, quite impressive! If you get tapering, I'd bet if you scored a lens with a wider in-focus range you could do thicker with out the taper.
Anyone here run an ikier laser? I've got an xtool d1 pro 10w, but have been looking at upgrading to something more powerful, and ikier is currently top of the list in my research lately. Seems they are under the same umbrella as Atomstack, offering the slightly more robust models through ikier it seems
That's why I'm hesitant in giving laser hints as I believe what I have differs significantly from what many have... and people that have similar are way above my hobbyist, non-reading paygrade. I can only relay as I see it.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
This is a response to the following comments made in awsum's project
SplinterGroup ..... but I also had the same issue with color in the pores. Nothing like sanding it until the pores disappear or the veneer is sanded away. ..... SplinterGroup ..... I finally decided to cover panels with tape before etching and filling the framing pattern. At least it kept the gook out of the pores, but then you loose that "antiquing". Still had to sand so removing the tape wouldn't pull out the fill, but made it fun to see the panel get exposed. Just like opening a gift.....
that may better suit this dedicated laser thread.
Instead of "normal masking tape", I use this dedicated laser masking tape, The "normal tape" on top is to give an indication of its size. Up front, it may be a tad shekel heavy, however. compared to normal masking tape it is much cheaper when measure by coverage. It will cover large ares in one lay and it's not too tacky to lift delicate pieces (eg. veneers, laminates, marquetry). I'm not the greatest fan of tape as if you engrave complex text/images, bits of tape is left behind (like the centre of an "O"for example) that have to be either manually removed or sanded off and heavy tape requires heavy sanding that may compromise the depth of the engraving.... I engrave a lot.
I have been put onto this fantastic alternative, I applied 3 spatula coats of the AquaCoat onto a rough piece of unsanded merbau. I didn't sand between coats and let it build up over the rough timber to see if it had any affect on the laser's performance... alweays been hesitant about introduced stuff, as my laser would cut concrete like butter in comparison to Timbermate.
I chose merbau as it had some deep heavy grain with lots of black in some of the grain. I deliberately left it unsanded to gauge the coats affect. I had a batch of hardened red filler made up from natural Timbermate and some Chinese red food colouring... that stuff they use on char siu... I reconstituted it with a bit of water and a lot of elbow grease, just don't get it on your fingers (or thumb) or clothes, as that bugga won't wash off.
Engraved the merbau and applied a base coat of the filler and a second coat to fill any voids missed. Wasn't overly careful to keep as close to the engraving as possible and I overlapped the circumference by at least 10mm all round as can be seen in the filler in the pores of the 2nd picture... both were done the same.
Hit it with 240G on my ROS after drying... with our heat, it didn't take long and voila. 1. With the AquaCoat, 2. Raw timber, 3. Duet, you b the, I found that with merbau, the more you sand the more deeper grain gets exposed... you may smooth it a bit, but never eradicate... The dark area on the left is the remains of the AquaCoat in the unsanded depressions after the light sanding to remove the excess backfiller... has not affected the natural look/characteristics of the timber.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
I've considered wax or any thing else that would keep a fill (resin, epoxy, filler) from sticking to the outer areas, but never thought about the aquacoat. It'll still stick, but with a layer of sandable between the fill and wood that doesn't need to be completely eradicated, Bob may indeed be a relative.
I do like that it can be applied to raw wood, then a followup with a finish like oil will still look the same, as if the AC was not there.
So you just buttered it up to fill the pores, etched the image, filled, and results was the TM didn't invade the off limit pores? May have to try that with some resin/epoxy as that is where I use tape the most. Masking tape works well as a barrier, but yes, it can be an issue to remove unless preserving the surface from heavy sanding doesn't matter. With the tape and using a water based filler for the etch, the sanding is super easy so the tape can be peeled off easily (still have the "O" issues).
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