I've wanted to make a box shaped like a grand piano for years. I cannot figure out how to make a keyboard that looks realistic, or at least good. I want a keyboard in the 6 - 8 " x 1/2 - 3/4" range. Piano in 10" - 12" square size. I'm flexible here.
I bought a pack of little pieces of wood, like square toothpicks. That didn't work. Too much like work. This could work with some jigs,maybe. Maybe woodburning lines? Looked bad. I printed out 1, didn't look right.
I can't do it, yet. There has to be a way. Any help is appreciated.
Hey, you don't know me, but you don't like me ... Buck Owens
I've seen a few at auctions over the years. I just remember they went for big money, so they are a thing to collectors. Of course all of the ones I saw were over 50 years old, and this was 30 years ago. In truth the details of them were not the perfection you see on a real keyboard. Most of their keyboards sported painted toothpicks. It looked like they used approx the same area of each single toothpick, to make one key, as size was kinda consistent, and most of the flat ones are tapered. All paint was a higher looking gloss, as were the cases. Most were of the grand piano style, but a few of the box type pianos were sold as well.
Never tried to make one, and didn't really have much interest, due to the prices, so I just kinda noted them. but the keys stood out because of the taper, they were irregular, just the tiniest bit. I think instead of the toothpicks, I would rip some really skinny stock on the bandsaw, make them consistent, and the looks would improve a lot. Or maybe it was because of the irregularity is why they were of value? If so kinda strange. They did call them "Americana" but then at an auction, everything that didn't have a real name was Americana
Not sure if anything good will be found in a search here, but it's the subject, sometimes all you hear are crickets doing a search
Maybe with veneer? Start with a white piece of wood. Cut thin grooves to inlay some strips to delineate the individual white keys and glue some black pieces of veneer on top for the black keys. The only saw I can think of that is thin enough to cut cut the delineating lines may be a flush trim saw? You could also fill the the kerfs with a black epoxy or CA. You could simply use a v-gouge to carve a very thin line to delineate each key instead of filling the gap. You could also use dremel router plunge tool and a v-bit to cut the lines.
Another option may be to glue small pieces for each key together with a contrasting piece of thin veneer between them to delineate the individual keys. If you use a dark glue, that might be enough to make the keys stand out and the veneer between each key may not be necessary.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
Stand your board on edge and make your width cuts on each side. You can make the cut deep enough for 2 or 3 rips or just deep enough for 1. If your stock is long enough you may only need 1 rip. Lay your board on it's side and make your depth cuts. I like to make the cuts on the outside of the blade so the fall off pieces don't get kicked out of the saw. The pieces may flop around a little bit, but it shouldn't create a problem.
Figuring out how to do something you have never done is what makes a good challenge.
Taking Bently's idea a step further...Start with a light colored wood like maple, cut kerfs lengthwise and glue a dark colored strips into the kerfs and then slice them off the end. You can make an octave at a time and draw, burn or simply use a knife to mark the white keys. as I did here with guide lines. You will need to size them for whatever width blade you have. The only problem is that you will get bat wings at the top of the kerfs.
Edit to add: you could fill the kerf with a dyed epoxy instead of wood.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
