How does one determine where to cut a box lid away from the box bottom?. I hope my question make sense. The box is 6" x 10" and roughly 5" high. Here's a pic in the glue up phase. Thanks.
There is no correct position, I'll generally just pick somewhere based on the look. As long as it's low enough to miss your panel and do whatever kind of lid attachment you want it's fine.
For me, it mostly depends on how the lid is going to be attached, the size of the box and if there is any specific bit of grain I want to keep/split.
Little boxes I generally seem to go for about a third, but less than that on bigger boxes.
For most any box, what MikeB says. If the box will have a purpose, you'll need to decide how deep the interior needs to be (trays, etc.) and the lid need to be deep enough to clear any handles or lifts on the trays. Beyond that, there are no hard rules, just what ever has the best proportions for appearance and the boxes style.
I agree with the prior. If doing a splines, I have tried to have one in the lid so I need to allow the space to add those. Whether you will use hinges versus a lift off lid also can be a factor (best to have this fully figured out in the design...don't ask me how I know this!!)
My biggest headache has always been leaving enough lid thickness for hinge screws. I try to keep it tight to minimize the thickness, but always seem to cross the line and end up using cut screws.
I have always felt it depends more on the look you are going for, rather than some pre-scripted rule, where you have to do this, or that. Some styles look better with a very slight top, and actually very few look better with an exaggerated one. I think I tend to go thinner than prescribed, sometimes by a large amount.
Splint, cut screws can be a good thing. But slip top lids are better :-)
Barb, pretty soon you'll have a pile of paper, and then the nightmare of cataloging it all will be real, cause I can tell ya, sorting through even a shoe box full of single pages, is no fun. :-) The only way I could ever "keep a good sketch" was to make a template of it, but then you have to keep remaking that project, so might not be something ya want to do. Unless you are making a killing on selling that item, still production work has it's issues.
Hinges (quality ones) are a huge expense % wise for boxes. If I'm planning (which is rare), I'll add something to the underside of the lid (usually a mirror), so that the hinges leave the box lid at an angle. This will serve a purpose that only hinges provide. For mere access to the boxes contents, a slip lid (slider or one that locates within the sides or meshes with interior lining) are plenty excellent. Also of course the slip on/in lid will alleviate messing with the hinges and screws! Cheap hinges can really ruin the experience if there is slop in the pins or they are so thin that screws distort the hinge leafs.
IOW, hinges are a huge PIA. At least this is what I have always thought of them on boxes. Now on doors. well I got used to them years ago. I kinda like the knife hinge, if it will work, but if the box is smallish, I also like 1/4" to 3/8" max on sides. Even 1/2" starts looking clunky, 3/4 just about sux for looks, unless it's a big beefy toolbox, even on a hope chest I like 5.8" better. I guess, even though it doesn't apply to me personally, thin is in.
I put wedges in the curf after cutting 2 sides. Hold w blue tape. Cut the 3rd side tape in more wedges. Then cut the last side. It's always nervy. Hope this helps.
That keeps the lid on for the 4th cut, without binding on the blade.
Like everyone says there's no set rule but when it comes to corner joinery it matters. If you do dovetailed or box finger jointed corners then where you cut has an impact on the aesthetics.
My method for box lid cutoffs is to cut the long sides through with the blade set as high as one feels comfortable, but not high enough to also sever the ends. I then lower the blade to cut 90% of the way through the ends. This leaves a thin section which can be cut with an Exacto knife, working from the inside out (avoids chipout). This avoids the worries about blade pinching. One can also use 1/8" aluminum angle shims that can be slipped into the through cuts and securely taped to the box surface.
GeorgeWest-thanks. SplinterGroup-thanks. Petey-thanks. Mr.Rick-thanks I haven't been out to my shop in a while as its been hot here in Tucson. Just as well because its given me some time to think about how I want to proceed.
