re: Learning Veneer Hamering- First Baby steps

Very well done for a first try Abbas. Mike is right about not really needing to tooth flat surfaces like plywood and MDF but Patrick says that it does add to the bonding process as well so it’s not a bad idea.
A couple of points I would add.
1) You shouldn’t be diluting the glue and diluting it doesn’t weaken it. Water content affects the heat holding ability and the consistency. For hammer veneering you do want to retain as much heat as possible and you do want a thin layer ….. but the water content that gives you those characteristics is the right consistency for general glueing as well. The strength is determined by the gram strength of the material you bought.

2) I’d stay away from the salted mix. I think you have already found that you don’t need the extra time. Adding salt is moving toward a liquid hide glue and that, for hammer veneering isn’t good. The reason that LHG won’t work isn’t exactly about initial tack although that is partly right. HHG cures in two distinct stages. First by cooling where it gains impressive initial tack and then by drying. LHG has only the drying stage. Essential to hammer veneering is the sealing action at the edges caused by the cooling to gel that only comes with HHG. This seal prevents air from getting under the veneer and creates the vacuum that presses the veneer. Don’t fear gel time. It is your friend in hammer veneering.
I hope I haven’t overstated what you already knew here but this is the most important concept in the process. :-)

3) Heat management is key in my opinion. I think I know the video where you got the ironing with water first from and it’s a good video …… but it isn’t usually necessary. I think he does it
a) to flatten the veneer immediately prior to bonding it and
b) to heat the surface. That’s a good idea on large areas as the heated surface will give you a bit more time (a better approach than salt). Another element of heat management comes from an observation I have made using several home made and commercial hammers. The cast iron ones work better (for me) and I think it is because they take the heat away better, therefore encouraging gelling at the edges where you want it. I could be wrong but that makes sense to me. So warm surface, cool hammer.

4) Don’t worry if it’s not perfect the first time, although yours seems to have gone really, really well. If you have areas that are poorly bonded or edges that just won’t stick down ……. let them cool (and lose some moisture) for a while and then iron them down. Remember that the glue only needs to be 140 degrees. To hot an iron will burn the glue and ruin everything.

Sorry about being long winded here. ……. Just want to help