You can't make inner cuts with a bandsaw unless you cut and weld your own blades.
Scrolling can get very complex, however, they tend to be "light" work... (don't know about yazall, but I can't work in the dark). Most scrollsaws have a size limit (for inner cuts) except for the more expensive, bigger throated ones... and I believe (without formal costing) a good one will cost a lot more than the Carvex... and until they release a cordless one, it's a case of location, location., location potentially working against...
I got the Ryobi, nothing against it per se, however considering it was an ad-hoc purchase to replace my corded Triton, my regret is that I didn't use it as a deposit for my Carvex instead. I'm not explicitly spruiking the Carvex, I'm spruiking the concept with any jigsaw (if possible), especially for people that don't have a scrollsaw/bandsaw... it's just that I now have a Carvex and it's features/accessories makes this setup easier (and may permit greater depth of cut in this configuration).
Repair service is through their distributors (25K away)... however, of all my Fe$tools since my first purchase 14 years ago, I've only had to get 1 serviced... it was a sander i dropped onto concrete from on top of a ladder... hell even the ladder winced.
The smooth cuts surprised me... but then I'm guessing (without a review) it is a feature of the Carvex with Fe$tool blades, inversion independent.
Now for the cutting depth and burn marks. The blades I used are rated at 30mm cutting depth... the thick piece of test timber was 45mm. The curves were just a lets see what I could do... I was concentrating big time on holding the piece flat to the table than the direction of feed. Also I was using a standard straight cut blade. I could potentially reclaim 4mm loss of depth by omitting the skin, due to the 6mm skin (6mm less the 2mm for base plate skim not used), however, it would require contersinking the base plate drill holes and extensive redesign to permit "threading" over the fork and still have an infeed. (You guys are making me dig deep into my BS bag.)
Fe$tool has a dedicated curve cut blade, but I was too bloody lazy to put it in. One of the features of the Carvex is to adjust the blade guard for exact 90° cuts for each blade change... I was testing proof of concept not screw around with settings.
I have some other things to do, but I will try to get off my arse, change the blade and make some more test curve cuts... problem is., I don't have a scrap bin full of all those magnificent variety of off cuts that everyone brags about and I am hesitant to waste my timber on a throw away demo.
I never considered the "spring board" affect, though on the small tests I made it was not an issue. I have chosen that "extreme" setup explicitly using my TSO loc dogs to a MFT style workbench with a solid face. If its a bench without a face, I can slip in a smaller battery to maximise the thickness of the benchtop I can slip it under,
alternatively a more prudent choice of dog holes and a different mount,
Support for the front could be an option for large heavy work... and now to contradict one of my arguments, it may be more prudent to cut in the upright position.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
