Thanks Ron Stewart. That jig is a project in it-self. After it reread the the description of it I realized that the blade has a maximum height of 3-1/2” less at a tilt. I guess I was to busy to go back and edit it.
I built that when I first started woodworking and if I had to do it over again…….
I went back and measured it again and the max height it can handle is 3-3/4”. This is a wild jig. I have the blade height spinning at 3-1/4” high and only having it held by a 1/2” at the top of the board by 3 or 4 screws. Don’t stand directly behind it. The first sample cut I made I had to hold the board by hand against the fence as it exited the blade because it was vibrating so much.
If you look at the end of the jig you’ll see a block or strip of wood I added. There’s a screw in it that is screwed into the the end of the board to stabilize it further, in a spot away from the spinning blade. There’s two rows of screws on this jig to accommodate different board heights.
The screws are filed flat on their tips and I also place a wood strip between the screws and the board to prevent them from blemishing the board.
After I cut the bevel on the board I have to cut the waste off where it hits the outer boarder with a utility knife and clean the rest up with a shoulder plane.
I reverse this jig to cut rabbits and bevels for the tops of my clocks and many other things. It’s very versatile.
I hope this makes sense and answers all your questions. If not fire away.
