I just had a few steps to get the panel ready for glue-up.
Finishing the border:
Applying the veneer tape. I taped vertical seams first, then the circles, then horizontal. When removing the tape, it can be hard to see which layers are on top, so knowing the order makes removal easier.
Removing the blue tape on the back. This took longer than applying the veneer tape because I had to do it carefully to avoid tear-out and to keep from pulling out some of the smaller pieces.
To avoid any warping, for the substrate I used the 3/4" plywood shelving that I used to support the work during the project. I had to Frankenstein an extension at one end to lengthen the piece. I sized it about 1" oversized in height and width and sanded-off the finish so the glue would stick.
No pics of applying the glue. With the large area, I did it as quickly as possible. Into the press for a few hours.
Hope it works out, you've got a lot invested and a cool looking design!
What do you use for your vacuum bag cauls? I've been using 3/4" melamine, but I keep cutting the pieces smaller to get a close fit to my panels ( to prevent the caul from bending where there is no support inbetween). I'd hate to need to buy another sheet, the stuff is deadly sharp and heavy.
Here’s hoping it’s good out of the bag. I realized my warp age was from using hot hide glue, frequently a little thin so I have more working time here in the desert. But then that gives me more warping if I don’t do both sides…
But using hot hide glue, I hammer veneer, so don’t need a big bag. There’s more than one way…
Splinter - In this case, since the substrate was already as flat and stiffer than my melamine cauls, I didn't need a bottom caul. I didn't use a top caul either since the veneer didn't overhang the substrate (it was the opposite) and because of the slight variations in veneer thickness. A top caul would have bridged the the thinner veneer somewhat. I did end up with some surprises when I pulled the panel from the press. More on that in the next post.
Eager to see your result! I actually like the "bridging" since it keeps my surface all at the same height with the upside down layout. The gap gets filled between the veneer and panel w/glue and hopefully it squeezes out the sides versus blowing through a veneer gap 😱
If you do try hide glue again Ross, I find that a squeeze bottle works great. I put the granules and water in there, then throw it in the fridge overnight to “bloom.” Next day, it comes out and sits in a little lunch warmer to warm up, and then I use it straight out of the bottle. I make it hot-maple-syrup runny, which is a little thinner than most people do, but again, desert, so things dry out fast. And runny glue means I can brush it smooth before it starts setting up, especially if I’ve pre-warmed the pieces it’s going on (by setting them out in the sun for a few minutes while I get my poop in a group).
When I’m done with it for the day, unplug the warmer and pop the squeeze bottle back in the fridge until next time I need it. I generally use it up before it goes bad, but once in a while it starts growing and I just toss it and make a new batch. That usually happens after I’ve gone a few months without using the glue.
Splinter - Yes, I can see how the upside-down assembly would benefit from the caul on top. If I attempt that in the future, I'll keep that in mind. I did not get any imprinting from the on the surface from the bag, release layer, or the breather. Luckily.
Ron - 🤣 No need to wait until "next season". Update soon.
Dave - I appreciate the details on your hide glue process. I still have a bag of granules and the little double boiler. Once I've built-up my courage, I'll give it another shot.
Fascinating project Ross, I love your problem solving and willingness to learn approach. It will be interesting to watch your progress. Unfortunately I'm not able to offer any advise but will enjoy learning from afar.
Kerry - Working with wood, the smell the feel, is such a joy, its a meditation of sorts.
