The hub is built from 5 disks cut from scrap plywood on the CNC. The layer that will be the face of the clock is a full disk with a recess for the battery-operated clock mechanism. The remaining layers are hollowed rings. Each layer has a set of 1/8" alignment holes to aid in gluing. The ring on the right has notches cut for the screws that will fasten the spikes.
A quick test to see how the radius on the spikes fit. I had cut the spike radius slightly larger than the plywood hub pieces to account for the veneer that would be applied to the hub. So, the slight gaps you can see here should disappear after the veneer is on.
The final ring has a recessed shelf that will support the removable back piece.
With all the hub pieces de-burred, it was time for the glue-up. I left a little of myself in the glue-up with dabs of blood from a cut on my thumb that I got when cutting the alignment pins with a utility knife.
With glue applied, I clamped the layers until the next day.
Time to make a final decision on what veneer to use to cover the hub.
I am still pondering what to do on the ends of the spokes. They may just get some wood filler. It's so small of an area that I don't think they'll be noticeable. I could also apply a little cherry veneer to cover the hole (or a contrasting veneer to highlight the tip).
I'm still working out how to do the hands. I have an idea to try.
The Nelson Sunburst clocks I have seen dont have points at the ends of the spikes. Can you cut off the hole and have it look right? You could use Bondo if no other idea works.
I could do that, and it would be a clever way to conceal that hole (thanks for that idea). I think I'll do what I can to maintain the original design, though, at least on this one.
Petey commented about 2 hours ago new The Nelson Sunburst clocks I have seen dont have points at the ends of the spikes. Can you cut off the hole and have it look right? You could use Bondo if no other idea works.
There is a little flat end on the spikes, and to me it looks close to the original. I had to guess at some of the dimensions and angles, so I'm sure it's not an entirely faithful replica. The pivot holes are pretty deep, so cutting off the tip wouldn't help. I have experimented with some fillers and how they respond to Rubio Monocoat (what I plan to use on the spikes) and they don't absorb the finish very well, leaving a light dot. I think I'll see if I can spin a tiny cherry dowel to plug the hole, which I think will give the most invisible repair.
