A Pair of Side Tables #6: Finished the framework!

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Finally. Got the wood prep all done šŸ¤ 

Table tops came out of the clamps aok, no drama or glue blobs to deal with thanks to the extensive taping.


Need to turn these into circles, so it's off to the router table....




Love the router table, very nice place to clamp stuff down!


I get to try out a few new tools I've had for over a year.

First up is the plunge base for my Bosch Colt.
I love the compact size and 10 gazillion doodads that came with the kit. The fixed base sucks for making easy adjustments, The motor fit right into the plunge base and locked up tight. Very smooth up/down with all the same features of my large plunge router.
The small size makes it a dream to use.


A trammel attached to the base (was used with the fixed base, same screw pattern).
18" diameter, 1/4" sprial bit. Screw used as a pivot point into the tops underside.

Had to reclamp a few times.

The router cut a groove deep enough to ride a larger template bit.
The groove also made a great reference for band sawing off the excess,


Template bit IN the router table to flush up the perimeter.
Second new tool was these flex-sanders LV had on sale. Bought for curves and now they get a tryout. They are made to use belt sander belts, but will work with regular strips.



Excellent!, glad to have the last of the parts cut out


Top crossbar support needed some top hold down holes.
The slotted holes will allow for cross grain movement while the single holes are to go along the long grain axis where there really is no movement


1/8" roundover on all exposed edges and Lots of sanding finished (I hate sanding) and all the parts are ready for a finish.


About time! workbench/table saw has become saturated (again)



During the week I'll run some of the cutoffs in the fumigator tent to check for timing and to see if any of the various parts need extra time for a more even tone across the entire table.

I plan to complete all finishing before assembly, it's just soo much easier.

15 Comments

Nice write up!

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

I agree with RyanGi, well written description of this project and your thought process. Very nice.

Like your "stepped" circle cutting method...Ā  it's detail like that people can learn/get ideas from. Ā 

I would have persevered with the router through to the end with the circle jig... that's why I worked on my upside down jigsaw circle cutter.Ā 

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

Love your writeup. Good job!

" Cogito Ergo Sum " (" I think therefore I am ") If you enjoy my posts please give a " like " šŸ‘

Instead of sanding the edges, I use a spokeshave. Can get a pretty darned good finish right off the tool if I sharpen it up ahead of time.

May you have the day you deserve!

Thanks guys!

I only did the step (versus going all the way through) since it is end grain.
With the step, I could use a top/bottom bearing bit to finish the flush-cut so I was always cutting the grain downhill. Helps prevent tearout for a much easier cleanup.

I've had enough disasters from a bit catching end grain the wrong direction and launching or exploding the part. Now I'll do most anything to avoid that.

Dave, I do have a spoke shave, but on end grain I probably would have done more damage. Anyway, the sanding was minimal and came out smooth!
Splinter, Something that big I probably would do on my bandsaw... however, whichever way, I would use my circle cutter jig on my disc sander for finish sanding.

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

I can't argue with that.
I have a 12" disc sander, but haven't made a circle jig and the disc (PSA) is worn out at the moment so I'd probably have to hand sand away the scorched wood (If it doesn't just burst into flame).
I liked the PSA because it gives a hard surface versus the more cushy H&L stuff. Bad thing is I can't change out discs (say I want to go to a finer grit) without destroying the current one. Tried to locate additional platters, but zilch found and they are a major pain to swap out anyway (requires disassembly of the top half).

Really though, the router bit did very clean work, only rough area was from the initial routing of the groove where it did uphill cuts. I figured it would so I kept the depth to < 1/4"
Come on already!Ā  Put it together.....we are all in suspense.Ā  LOLĀ  seriously...Super job with an eye on detail...

Mike

Great write up Bruce. Gonna be a fine pair of tables.Ā 

I like that Bosch base. But I had Bosch Colt routers LONGggggggg before the current crop of kits like the DeWalley came out. Not sure which way I would go if I were a newb, buying new today. I'm so used to the Bosch if I had history I would always stick with what I know.

On the sander and changing grits, this is a very good case for a roll your own kit, and making several double thick 3/4" plywood disc's and just changing out the entire disc, paper and all. Sort of a Worksharp 3000 on steroids.Ā 
Looking good, Splinter.Ā  I'm anxious to see all those pieces come together.

Like George, I'm liking the looks of that plunge base for the Colt.Ā  My Colt is years old and still working, but the shaft lock button no longer springs back once released.Ā  I have to lever it back out after a bit change.Ā  And the threaded shaft to raise/lower the motor was always a bit clunky.Ā  I'd definitely look at other options if the Colt expired, but that plunge base could be enough to pull me back.Ā 
Thanks MIke, patience Grasshopper!Ā 

George,
you are spot on with choosing a replacement. I'm out of the loop as to what's what, but recall maybe 5 years ago about a test between all the cordless routers.

I wish I could change out the discs, the original backer is aluminum and to get it off, assuming I had another with a different grit to swap, I have to remove the table and lift the head with the disc and 48" belt sander off of the base to access the hub screw.
Only thing I think that would work is to cover the disc with the hook fabric for a H&L conversion from the PSA.

Then I'd just need to drop the table to change grits.Ā 

Thanks Ross!
The spindle lock on mine sheared off after the first few years so I have to double-wrench it to change bits.
Bingo on the clunky height knob, also the lock lever for the fixed base is either too loos to lock or too tight to release the motor. Basically I need to give it a half turn after unlatching to free up the motor.

The plunge base fits the motor perfectly


Ā SplinterGroupĀ 
......
I liked the PSA because it gives a hard surface versus the more cushy H&L stuff. Bad thing is I can't change out discsĀ 
That slight "cushiness" mitigates the force I use and cuts back on the friction burning. Ā 
If you want hard... use a plane (or viagra).

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

I have always used PSA discs for a disc, or in the case of the WS 3000 a plate sander. I guess I am thinking H&L would cause too much "give" and in the end that would affect outcome.

Maybe it's just because I haven't used it I have this fear? I do know that for my WS, I can't imagine wanting any "give" on a chisel's cutting edge. So I don't think I'm inclined to swap.Ā 
That was my assumption for PSA as well George. I wanted precision, straight edges and crisp angles. But of course I know the need for some "give" in many situations where that exactly flat edge isn't 100% critical.

H&L for the disc sander probably would be a better choice given the PITA it is to pull the platter from my machine (Powermatic 10A 12"/48" combo). Also once a PSA disc is attached, I'll use it until it is totally Fubar'dĀ  since there is no saving it for another time.
Of course PSA is a tad cheaper than H&L so my left shoulder accountant imp whispers in my ear about saving the $.