First off, thank you for your input and kind words. I am happy to share what little knowledge I have on this model but I really hope to share my enthusiasm and excitement for the building of this great plan from Dutchy!
I was asked about the radiator fabrication and so today's Part will deal with that. Before you start making the radiator and the back up piece (3A on the plans), you should first decide what species of wood the radiator (3C) and Cowling (3B) will be. That is truly the starting point because once you know that, you can cut the stock to the proper thickness (12mm) and size.
For this discussion, I have selected poplar and walnut for the radiator blanks. These are each 12mm thick and cut to near finished size as per the plans.
Next, mate the pieces, using double stick tape, creating a "cookie". This is how the mating differing species parts will be the same and join up smoothly.
After placing the template on the "cookie", you are ready to cut the shapes out. I do not attach the template directly to the stock. I use DUCK shelf liner as the base for applying the template since it peels off easily and there is no residue left from the spray adhesive I use to attach the template. Give it a few minutes to set up and then cut out the parts on the scroll saw. I used a #7 ST blade. Take your time. You want the scroll cut out to be as smooth as possible and do not muck with it by sanding the mating sides, trying to finesse a better fit.
Cut out complete. I put the pieces back together using, yep, you guessed it, double stick tape and touch up the sides on the belt sander to the lines ONLY ON THE OUTSIDE PERIMETER!!!
When cut out, you will have 2 complete radiators, each with different cowling and radiator core. Now glue up 3B, 3C , and 3D. Let them dry completely. Once dry, mark out the radiator shape using the template for the TOP on page 8 of the templates. Also, affix the blank to a square piece of stock, to be used as a handle. It is important that the piece used as the handle is as square and true as you can make it since that will establish the precision of the final shape. Sand or bandsaw the radiator to final shape. I used a belt sander but a bandsaw with a 1/4" fine tooth band will work and then finish sanding out all saw marks.
Ensure the table is square to the belt, if using a belt sander or the blade is square to the table if bandsawing.
Finished radiator before gluing on to Part 3A REMEMBER: Parts 3A and 3B are the same species.
Here are the radiators attached to my two models. Still some cleanup sanding to do but generally fitted to the model.
******************************************** I hope this discussion helps answer your questions about fabricating the radiator. I will again say that this is the way I figured out to do it and it worked for me with little or no issue but I'm sure there is a smarter way to do it. It you have a better way, please let me know. I am always willing to learn. ******************************************** A last note for today is to mention the engine compartment block (Part 2A). The plans are quite clear about the nose end and the firewall end radii match first the radiator you just made and the firewall matching Part 7A. This admonition is easily forgotten while concentrating on shaping the engine block.
Place the template 7A on the firewall of the engine block and insure that, once centered, both radii match. Part 7A, the dash board, will sit proud of the engine block once attached but the radii must match for a proper view.
Thank you both for tuning in. I would guess that this particular model is not the most complex of Jan's creations but that doesn't mean, in any way, that it does not require constant attention to the little details. This is my 5th plan of Dutchy's with No 6, the VW bus, still waiting on my desk. I think Jan does great work and every plan gives us something new to learn and create. I will say that IF I was not as far into this as I am, I would fabricate the engine part completely differently using additional parts and not use a solid block of wood. My reasoning is that I would like to add engine cowling vents along the side where they exist on original models of the AC6. I thought I could use my S1 laser to do it since it will carve bowls and such but the incline is too steep for the laser to traverse. I've spent time considering building a router jig but no good solution comes to mind. So, I've reconciled "no vents" this time around.
That engine................. This car runs on wood. 😉
The question always arises how to make a model that everyone can enjoy. That means that the Euro truck has an engine with a fair amount of detail. The Vespa also has also a small engine. In this model and also in the other luxury cars I leave out the engine.
I dare to reveal that the next model will have a new extra (two extra's even) that I have not used before. It took a lot of energy and it is already the fourth drawing, but the model will be coming in a few months. Yesterday I started making the second prototype.
Oh wow! Looking forward to that. Oh, and I did figure out how to do the vents using the laser. That will be Part 3 in the next few days. Take care,Jan.
