Not everything is perfect except for maybe Fe$tool… consider this cap...
It let’s your golden locks shine through the mesh, but covers up that bald spot on top so no one can see it. So let’s see what pros and cons I can dredge up for something relatively new on the market.
Bought a Fe$tool dusty and cyclone combo for my BenchPilot and while I was on a spending spree, another $70AUD on my VISA wasn’t going to unduly extend my incarceration for insolvency by more than a few extra well-fed days in jail.
Unlike the other push blocks, this is a variable, multi-sized shoe that can expand its footprint from 45mm to 153mm, with the use of a locking knob on top of the middle leg, ... at least according to my tape measure, however, it has enough play that seems to expand it to 48mm with the knob fully tightened… Hmmm, must be due to the ads reporting its range in inches and the metricAI is trying to honour the 50.8mm advertised 2”, minimum barrier.
During setup, ensure your sawblade top is only margianally above the workpiece as there is only a 22.225mm clearance for the cross members.
The grip of the rubber is great, though it is new, but if anything like the GRR-Rippers it’ll come good with a wipe down of vino.
If one bothers to look where the blade will pass, it only takes seconds to adjust to ensure no surgery is performed on any one of its 3 legs. Once expanded to avoid the sawblade, it has an outrigger that is controlled by two knobs and can be lowered to kiss the tabletop to provide support if the extended left leg straddles a tad too far away and prevents it being accidentally tilted and deprived of the full downward pressure.
Each of the legs has a push down “hook” to grip the end of the workpiece in events where you may need to extort brute force while you are trying to cut a ridiculously thick piece of timber with a dull blade.
The good thing about that is that if you refuse to cut the leg, the hook will remain unscarred. Unfortunately they are not gravity fed and must be controlled manually.
Without prolonged use, the main con I foresee is the “straight”, forward direction handle. The GRRs' have an angled handle that tends to force the work into the fence ensuring as straight a cut as your fence is, however, with just the forward direction, I found I had to intuitively apply sideways pressure on the handle to mentally satisfy no deviation. Now I haven’t scientifically/technically studied this concept… it’s just my gut feeling. Having said that, there is a similar concept with push sticks, however, where possible I put a slight angle on mine,
for that 2bsure, 2bsure complacency... even with a featherboard. Speaking of featherboards, another issue I encountered is in using them when the extended left leg protrudes past the width of a job that is lower than the mag switches on the featherboard or you use the outrigger,
While this can be overcome, when not using the outrigger, by printing thinner featherboards like the green, much like the reach of the bought black one pictured,
but I have to activate my new 3D printer first… in the meantime I have to decide which push block to use per scenario.
Am I encouraging anyone to go and get one? Yes, if you don’t have any… either brand/model is recommended.
Am I encouraging a replacement if you have a GRR? Yes if yours look anything like mine… even though my hooks are shop made,
or at least be more bloody careful!.. and clean those rubbers!!!
Don’t be crafty Craftisians,... SHARE your craft!
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
Has nice features. I dig the quicker adjust versus the binding up when sliding over one of the feet on my GRRipper. Loss of full blade coverage (safety) is certainly lacking, but blade visibility is also a safety feature. Alas, my GRRipper's handle doesn't allow for the angling of the handle so seeing that the wood is flush to the fence is good as well as being able to see that the blade isn't too high which has almost turned my GRRipper into a pair of grippers on several occasions.
I realize I also have one of those hats provided when I bought the $99 5" ROS sander when introduced. Still new-in-bag/unsullied (worth much more as a collectable, like a 70's troll doll or pet rock)
seems you failed to say who makes this ? maybe i missed that but i know it's make by Bow. Ive got a bunch or their products that i did a review on awhile back. ive looked at this before and may get one myself. i like it's easy to adjust. if something takes too much effort to use chances are you wont.
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Thanks Pottzy.... I remember pasting the brand name, but it may have got lost in the rewrite (often happens to me in posts when I leave the page and return to a blank screen).
It is BOW (have updated)...
i like it's easy to adjust. if something takes too much effort to use chances are you wont.
Should have gotten 5*... I only gave it 4* because of it's conflict with my featherboards... that -1* was for me having to read my 3D printer manual so I can print a long, skinny one.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
but the grrriper will have the same issue with the out rigger so im good with that. i just like the easy adjustability. when i saw it i knew what it was right away being a Bow user with the same festool color. they make some cool shit ! i love the push stick with replaceable tips. use mine all the time. have so far only nicked the business end !
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Yeah, you're 110% (nearly) correct... damn, you're not quite a dumb as your SWMBO advertises... I'm sure I had the same issues with the GRR, however, it wasn't till I did the photo shoot and was fishing for cons against the BOW, that it dawned on me.... The issue is still there for both brands, and I've still gotta bloody well read to get that stewpid 3D printer operational... at least the long reach will solve 1/2, the problem of reach, but not the outrigger... a sledge will make it happen.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
