Steve Rasmussen

 The first strip to install is the center ash trim. A dab of hot melt glue is put onto the green tape between the pencil marks for the center trim....

Most of this part is taken from one of the later comments in the previous part. I have been holding back the details on how the car is going to be ...

 With the forms in place and templates for the fender curves, door handle and side light I can verify the basic layout of the strip fields. The fie...

I drew location lines on the strong back for each form. After cutting a set of mounting cleats I start to mount the forms. [image.png]   The first...

The strong back is built with a top and bottom layer of OSB and a frame between them. This yields a very stiff structure that will maintain flatnes...

I use a more error proof method to tile the forms in the CNC. There are 2 reference holes in a temporary spoil board. Two matching holes are cut in...

  Lazyman suggested I should verify my form shapes by checking an inverse of the forms against the car profile. This gave me a chance to try out th...

 With measurements in hand I now can enter them into a spreadsheet.    Then I can create curves that run vertically on the doors. [image.png] And ...

  This is a project that started to take shape sometime in the mid 2010s. I’m going to hold back some of the details and let the story unfold on it...

 Since this cabinet is so small I ended up buying some artists brushes for oil paints. [image.png] They really helped with the application of the...

There are a lot of little pieces in this entry!    I started with the half circles - largest one first. Since this spalted maple can be fragile I p...

This is probably the most involved piece in the project (yes, even more than the doors). If you refer back to the first part in this blog you will ...