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Jim Jakosh
2529 posts
and
45 followers
in over 2 years
in over 2 years
Laser Engraving Metal
I have an X Tool D1 Pro 20 Watt laser and have engraved stainless steel very successfully using Omtech spray to pre coat the material. So I wanted to try it on brass, copper and aluminum in case I get asked to engrave on those materials. I wanted to see what power setting and what speed setting would work best. In the test I printed the power and the speed . I tried a couple levels of each to see which
one would do the best for permanency.
As you can see the brass and the copper did good with both combinations I chose. The aluminum completely wiped off with the first combination and even came off most of the way with the second . So I think I'll avoid engraving aluminum. I'll be using 100% power and around 100 mm/min for speed on the brass and copper to insure a good permanent engraving.
one would do the best for permanency.
As you can see the brass and the copper did good with both combinations I chose. The aluminum completely wiped off with the first combination and even came off most of the way with the second . So I think I'll avoid engraving aluminum. I'll be using 100% power and around 100 mm/min for speed on the brass and copper to insure a good permanent engraving.
Cheers, Jim ........................ Variety is the spice of life...............Learn something new every day
8 Replies
good test jim, ive never tried to use mine on metal yet. pretty good results.
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Diode lasers are marginal for metal as the material sucks away the heat as fast as the lasers can pump it in.
Usually CO2 or fiber lasers are used for this since you need 100+ watts of power to get the metal to vaporize before the heat gets pulled away.
The spray actually chemically bonds to the surface versus etching. You should try some low gloss or flat white spray paint as well to see if there is a significant difference, could save some $$, but those special purpose sprays (LB100, Cermark, etc.) are as good as it can get. I really like the Rustolium "2X" matte white paint/primer as it has a high amount of titanium dioxide which is what turns black and melts/sticks to the base material.
Alternatively, you might try something as simple as packing tape or self adhesive shelf liner. Clean the metal, apply the film, and cut your pattern as before, but with only enough power to punch through and burn off the liner. Makes for a perfect mask through which you can then chemically etch the metal.
Usually CO2 or fiber lasers are used for this since you need 100+ watts of power to get the metal to vaporize before the heat gets pulled away.
The spray actually chemically bonds to the surface versus etching. You should try some low gloss or flat white spray paint as well to see if there is a significant difference, could save some $$, but those special purpose sprays (LB100, Cermark, etc.) are as good as it can get. I really like the Rustolium "2X" matte white paint/primer as it has a high amount of titanium dioxide which is what turns black and melts/sticks to the base material.
Alternatively, you might try something as simple as packing tape or self adhesive shelf liner. Clean the metal, apply the film, and cut your pattern as before, but with only enough power to punch through and burn off the liner. Makes for a perfect mask through which you can then chemically etch the metal.
Thank you very much, Bruce. I will try the paint after I use up this expensive spray. It is so easy to wash off with water. I like the idea of the tape and will also try that!!!! it is fun experimenting!!!
Cheers, JIm
Cheers, JIm
Cheers, Jim ........................ Variety is the spice of life...............Learn something new every day
Interesting process, could lead to many a project ideas. Have fun.
I hadn’t thought about cutting a mask in-place using the laser, then chemically etching. In the past, I’ve used a cricut craft machine to cut masks from vinyl, then applied the mask and etched. Not terribly complicated, but the mask transfer can get a little dicey if it’s complicated. Of course, on uneven surfaces the laser method may not work, but it’s still a great idea!
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
I've done it with etching the copper PC boards and mirror silvering removal. All nice and flat/smooth for a good seal so no adventures with anything rough.
You realy widened your services....
...woodicted
Hi Ivan. Yes and now I have to get work to pay for the laser
Cheers, Jim ........................ Variety is the spice of life...............Learn something new every day
