I have an X Tool D1 Pro 20 Watt laser and have engraved stainless steel very successfully using Omtech spray to pre coat the material. So I wanted to try it on brass, copper and aluminum in case I get asked to engrave on those materials. I wanted to see what power setting and what speed setting would work best. In the test I printed the power and the speed . I tried a couple levels of each to see which one would do the best for permanency. As you can see the brass and the copper did good with both combinations I chose. The aluminum completely wiped off with the first combination and even came off most of the way with the second . So I think I'll avoid engraving aluminum. I'll be using 100% power and around 100 mm/min for speed on the brass and copper to insure a good permanent engraving.
Cheers, Jim ........................ Variety is the spice of life...............Learn something new every day
Diode lasers are marginal for metal as the material sucks away the heat as fast as the lasers can pump it in. Usually CO2 or fiber lasers are used for this since you need 100+ watts of power to get the metal to vaporize before the heat gets pulled away.
The spray actually chemically bonds to the surface versus etching. You should try some low gloss or flat white spray paint as well to see if there is a significant difference, could save some $$, but those special purpose sprays (LB100, Cermark, etc.) are as good as it can get. I really like the Rustolium "2X" matte white paint/primer as it has a high amount of titanium dioxide which is what turns black and melts/sticks to the base material.
Alternatively, you might try something as simple as packing tape or self adhesive shelf liner. Clean the metal, apply the film, and cut your pattern as before, but with only enough power to punch through and burn off the liner. Makes for a perfect mask through which you can then chemically etch the metal.
Thank you very much, Bruce. I will try the paint after I use up this expensive spray. It is so easy to wash off with water. I like the idea of the tape and will also try that!!!! it is fun experimenting!!!
Cheers, JIm
Cheers, Jim ........................ Variety is the spice of life...............Learn something new every day
I hadn’t thought about cutting a mask in-place using the laser, then chemically etching. In the past, I’ve used a cricut craft machine to cut masks from vinyl, then applied the mask and etched. Not terribly complicated, but the mask transfer can get a little dicey if it’s complicated. Of course, on uneven surfaces the laser method may not work, but it’s still a great idea!
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
I've done it with etching the copper PC boards and mirror silvering removal. All nice and flat/smooth for a good seal so no adventures with anything rough.
Adding to this thread for posterity. I’ve got an Ortur LM-3 with an 10W head that works great for me. I just bought a relatively inexpensive Laser Tree R1 1064nm laser head for it to engrave metal.
The head doesn’t have the same dovetail quick-connect profile so, for now, I remove four screws and mount the head to the adjustment bracket I’ve got installed. I’ll figure out a quick connect before too long.
The LT-R1 uses a separate driver board (included) and wants aux power (not included). I did some research and found an off the shelf (Amazon) 6-pin to 3-pin converter cable to go from the OEM output cable to the new driver board…then the included cable runs from the board to the head.
Fired it up and it ran like it was built for the LM-3. Couldn’t be happier with the results. For Brass I started with 100% power and 100 mm/m and the results were spot on.
If you want to forgo Ti paint, this is a great head. It’s low power, so only for engraving, but the resolution is great!
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
Great setup Ryan! I'll have to check into that configuration to see what it'll take. An infra red laser can do stuff others can't (same for a UV and fiber and CO2 and....)
Great that you got that to run like that , Ryan. I'd be lost doing the hook up like that. I was just happy to get mine to run after I bought it. But for my test, stainless and brass and copper work real good. I had shiny aluminum and someone told me that is why it did not etch well- too much reflectivity. It would probably not matter with your set up!!! Cheers, Jim ps. it is just so great to have the laser capability in my shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cheers, Jim ........................ Variety is the spice of life...............Learn something new every day
Jim, it all depends on which type laser you’re using. Shiney metals don’t work well with diode lasers, especially lower wattage lasers. Near IR lasers are the inexpensive way to get around that. I’m sure happy with it thus far. It was a shear stroke to find the conversion cable readily available. Building one wouldn’t be so hard, but you’d have to understand the pinout. Having it ‘just work’ was sure a nice surprise!
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
very nice i have not try metal yet first would like to get better with wood first hard to teach old dude new tricks now i go to shop and first thing i touch is laptop then laser power im having a blast
An IR laser is a great next step from a standard diode laser. Diodes can't directly do much on metal without marking paints. The paints fuse with the metal. IR Lasers can do metal directly and are very well focused for fine detail. They still don't really "cut", for that you need a fiber laser which is an IR laser with an order of magnitude+ power.
Nothing I have has the power to really cut anything. My diode laser is a true 10 W laser and it’ll cut 3 mm material with a couple of passes. I’d be interested in picking up a 20 W head but, that said, I don’t really need it…. At least I haven’t needed it. The small IR laser is great for etching metal which is about all I’d do with it. Most of the work I do with the laser is decorative anyway. Although it is nice to be able to cut patterns at 3 mm. I also have the Shaper Origin to do more complicated designs in thicker material, so there’s that to consider when I look at other laser heads. Pretty happy with the Laser Tree stuff though!
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
