Much quicker than laying out a square. What I do is mark the center point of my plug, then drill a plug-depth hole with a bit that matches the hole in the proper LV chisel. With the hole drilled, I place the tip of the same drill into the hole and slide the LV chisel over, then use a square to align it with some edge. The drill bit usually will extend way beyond the LV chisel's end so I have a deep socket handy that will slip over the bit and make contact with the chisel. A few taps with a mallet will set the chisle. ]I then remove the bit and wack more with the mallet until the curves in the apexes of the chisel hit the wood/ Note that the pilot hole also allows the wood to push into the hole so you are not enlarging the desired square hole OD. With the LV chisel removed you now have nice reference pits to use a standard chisel to finish up the sides of the hole.
Note that the LV chisel is really just a power mortiser chisel with a screw on basher. If you have a set of mortiser chisels, you can do the same.
Rick, LV also offers sharpening cones for these punches, I suggest you secure these as well. Like Splint mentioned, these punches are really bits for a mortising machine but with handles. I have a mortise machine and I've experienced the dulling of the square bits, especially after a larger cabinet like build with many mortises. Then they start to become hard to use, and sometimes cause dulled and rounded entry edges on the mortise due to breaking grain rather than cutting the wood.
SplinterGroup, Oldtool....These punches will cut 3/8" deep. When you do G&G plugs do you always make the plugs this long+ ? What depth square hole up to 3/8" deep do you make? And how do you accurately control the depth?
I use the 3/8" primarily, but I bought the set since the smaller ones are commonly paired with largers for G&G frames (see my John Hall mirrors).
For depth, I usually go no more that 1/4", 1/8" for smaller items. Deeper means a bit more hole to ensure they go in without tilting. The depth control comes from the pilot drill hole more or less, but I'll usually just add a dot of epoxy and use an old credit card with the proper hole to slip over the plug, then press flat with a scrap of wood. The cards leave a consistent reveal. One of the sizes, can't remember which, has a common size hole through the center and for those I'll use a Frostner bit for the initial locating hole to get the flat bottom. For the alignment I'll then use the same size drill bit, shank down to align the punch/chisel with the hole as mentioned before. I haven't bought a sharpening stone, but could use one about now. I prepare my stock to 1/64" oversize for a good compression fit with the sides.
Today I got my Lee Valley 5/16" square hole punch. I already had these diamond cone sharpeners. For this size you use a 17/64 drill bit. So now I would like to know how you accurately CONTROL DEPTH? The instructions say to drill the hole. Then remove drill bit from drill. Then place drill bit into hole and slip the punch over the bit. Then remove bit and tap punch with hammer. They caution not to use a metal hammer. Then after striking the punch you remove it and pick the cut pieces out. They suggest a dental pick. Say What? THE THING IS ..... How do you accurately control the depth? You'll have to make a plug and will need to know how to control depth. ANY SUGGESTIONS from anyone? Also, I'm thinking maybe using a Forstner bit to give the hole a flat bottom. This was one of SplinterGroups suggestions. He also suggested controlling depth by cutting to top of punches curved sides. So..... any more suggestions anyone?
im not sure id worry about the depth. id just tap the plug into the cavity where you want it ? i know there would be a chance going to deep ? thats where the "skill" comes in !!!!
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
when i did my G&G wall table i never even thought about it. i used my mortising machine and then just carefully tapped each ( about 60 plugs) to the height i wanted.
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Another technique is to align the punch and tap it in to get the corner points to dig in. Remove the punch and mark an "X", corner to corner to determine the center. Drill press with proper Forstner bit and stop set to depth, center the bit and drill. You can then reset the punch in the corner notches and whack away. Chisel out the waste but leave the flat created by the drill.
I also glue since the plugs can get bumped or loose as things shift from humidity. Usually just a dab of epoxy applied with a toothpick to the sides and flat. Not too much or it'll squeeze out
The depth management is the same as for a twist drill' 1. A piece of tape 2. A grub screw lock collar. Only its square not round. As mentioned if you have Hollow chisel morticer you have a set by default already. Also available is a LV Veritas corner chisel if you like hitting it with a hammer.
Found the handle for the miter bits, made by Rockler. Only had to add the handle to my tool stash to use the bits I already had in my mortising rig. Do not remember the cost.
