band saw riser block question

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Good morning all.
I bought a used 14" band saw with a riser block last year and am wondering if I can take the riser block back off. It cuts nice and straight through thick or thin hardwood. Cutting curves seems to be the problem. I cannot get a nice curve on it, no matter what I do. I’ve reset up the machine so many times now I could probably do it in my sleep. Tied more tension, less tension, more teeth, less teeth. about the only thing I haven’t replaced are the wheels themselves. I’ve replaced the tires, guide blocks (a few times). It will do tight curves and large curves, but they all come out bumpy for lack of better term. Sure do have to sand a lot. Is it me or just the saw. It’s a King Canada 14". Or should I just try to unload it on some poor soul and buy a new one. Very frustrated. My table saw and band saw are the main tools in my little garage shop.

For the bandsaw I have seen, You can take the riser block off.
If you kept the blade guard you need to replace that as well.

Out of curiosity, Can you post a picture of a curve you cut and please provide the width of the blade for that particular cut. It’s hard to judge what’s bad without seeing it.

Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

Before you do anything you should watch this you tube. This guy has it down tuning a band saw.

Tor and Odin are the greatest of gods.

Tuning your bandsaw unusual the key.


That video on tuning was great, I learned a ton. Everyone should take the time to tune that way, never fail. Christie, I suggest watching it just to be sure you aren’t missing something.

CHRIS, Charlottetown PEI Canada. Anytime you can repurpose, reuse, or recycle, everyone wins!

Great video. So many things I was doing wrong! Thank you for sharing!

Thanks everyone, I have seen this video and done the tune up a few times. I’m thinking that it’s just not the right machine for a riser block. The King Industrial models are beefier and might take the riser. I’ll probably just live with it for a while and save for a better saw. I’d prefer to stay with a North American machine.

The bumpiness may be due to the weld in the blade itself. Take a close look at the weld and check to see if the pieces line up properly. I once had a blade that the welded pieces were misaligned and it left a cut that was bumpy as you described.

CHRIS, Charlottetown PEI Canada. Anytime you can repurpose, reuse, or recycle, everyone wins!

Thank you Thorreain.
I’ll check all my blades because it has been happening for a while now. A few months at least.

I think you’re seeing the spine of the saw flex when there’s friction on the blade in a turn. I’ve tried a riser block on a 14" band saw and the blade cupped in the cut due to the blade tension dropping. It doesn’t matter how high the tension is to begin. The spine stiffness on a modern Delta style band saw is marginal to begin with. Add 6" to the height of the wheel and it is much easier to adding 6" to a lever.

I ended up selling my 14" BS and bought a 10" for curves and a 20" for ripping rough lumber and resawing. One of the better equipment decisions I’ve made.

Thank you very much Mark. That is what I have been thinking after doing all the tune ups and stripping it down a couple of times and re-tuning over and over. I’m a machinist by trade and it just doesn’t seem rigid enough. thanks again.