Canoe

Madts
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I am getting ready to start a canoe build for my son. He wants to compete in the Texas Water Safari, http://www.texaswatersafari.org which is a grueling 240 mile trip down 2 Texas rivers. This is a non-stop race.
This canoe will be a stitch and glue contraption 16 feet long. I will scarf the plywood together using epoxy (West System) My big question is I can use Titebond III for the rest of the boat. I want to do this because of cost. Before I have used Epoxy throughout. For the chines I plan to use fiberglass cloth and polyester resin.
I have just started using Titebond III and like it but do not want my boat falling apart.

Tor and Odin are the greatest of gods.

I’m not sure there are many canoe builders here madts, but TB III is supposed to be the exterior glue of choice. I suggest either gluing a test piece and subjecting it to an immersion test, or maybe looking on a canoe building forum (not being smart or anything).
Are the exposed ply pieces going to have a finish applied?

Doing the best I can with what I've got

Rennners I was just hoping that somebody had experience with this wood and water.
And yes everything will be painted or varnished.

Tor and Odin are the greatest of gods.

I meant glue instead of wood.

Tor and Odin are the greatest of gods.

MadTS:

You may want to research epoxy glues. I use West Marine, and I believe Shipwright does, as well. These are two-part adhesives – a bit more involved, have extended ‘open’ time and are water-impervious. I’m not sure that TB3 is intended for in-water or saturation situations.

I’ve completed several external furniture pieces – all mortise & tenon, and have never had a joint fail.

MJCD

I can’t speak from any experience on the Tightbond III issue. I’ve never used it and in 40+ years of boatbuilding, haven’t run across anyone else using a PVA glue other than perhaps on interiors. I know epoxies are expensive but I think I’d stick with them (pun incidental). My preference has always been Cold Cure (now a System Three product) but WEST is OK as well.

However, I have to comment on the polyester idea. Don’t do it! Polyester is not an adhesive. In fact the only thing it will reliably stick to is other polyester resin (think fiberglass boat). Especially for the chines, you MUST use epoxy. Polyester seams just won’t withstand any kind of trauma at all. PM me if I can help.

The early bird gets the worm but its the second mouse that gets the cheese.

Shipwright:

Thanks for the clarification – never my intent to speak for someone else…

MJCD

By-the-Bye it’s “West System” not “West Marine”.

MJCD

I Knew what you meant. I used all upper case because WEST is actually an acronym for Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique, the Gougeon Brothers’ trademark name for their particular style of cold molding. I prefer Cold Cure for it’s wide temperature range and lack of amine blush.

The early bird gets the worm but its the second mouse that gets the cheese.

Shipwright:

Thanks – didn’t know that, on the WEST.

I have an upcoming need for epoxy, and will give the Cold Cure a try.
MJCD

I too would like to try Cold Cure. The only problem is price. You see, I can buy WEST system whole sale. That means 40% off. My supplier does not carry Cold Cure.
Also I have been using WEST for over 30 years now and I am very familiar with it.

Tor and Odin are the greatest of gods.