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I just picked up a new–to– me 1939/40 Delta DP 220 drill press. It’s really in pretty good shape overall, just a little rust on the bonnet, but I think I want to remove the paint and return it to its former glory. I looks like it’s been repainted a couple times. I have to work on a replacement for the 3 stripe badge, because I don’t know if I can get that painted up proper, but in terms of paint for the casting and covers what do you guys recommend? I was thinking rust-oleum enamel? Also any hints that you guys can give for process, I’m happy to hear!

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

28 Replies

I’ve restored a couple of old ShopSmiths and used Rust-o-leum hammered finish.
It looks great!

The early bird gets the worm but its the second mouse that gets the cheese.

That does look nice. And I love that paint, I’ve used it for other metal projects. But I kind of want to try to replicate the original finish on the DP, and I’m assuming that was enamel initially. I’m actually considering priming and back sanding the bonnet and pulley cover to try to make it really slick..which might be a bit overkill. We’ll see….I’ve got a while since it’s pretty cold to be painting right now. Which is why I’m soliciting ideas!!

Did you use a primer on the Shop Smith?

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

I’ve used Rustoleum on my Boice Crane drill press and my PM90 lathe.  It looks good and has held up well over time on both.
IIRC, ToddJB completely restored and repainted one of those a few years back and would probably have some great input for you Ryan. People were referring to it as an alien head dp. I don't know if he has made the move over to Craftisian yet.

"Duck and Bob would be out doin some farming with funny hats on." chrisstef

Thanks DM. I’ll see if I can find it. 

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

Ken, did you use the enamel or just their standard rattle can?

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

For my '65 Powermatic bandsaw, I stripped it down to bare iron, then primed it with some leftover Dupont 615 S Variprime 2-part zinc primer (the green stuff used on aircraft parts and bare steel) 2-part self etching. Anyhoo, that gave a solid base for a top coat.
For that, the closest match I could find locally was a quart of some off the shelf Ace Hardware store brand "Machine and Implement Rust Stop" Enamel. 

It sprayed on well and is pretty tough.

Since you are going grey (I assume), there should be plenty of off the shelf paints.
For about the best off the shelf protection, I always go for the spray cans of epoxy paint. Limited color pallet and takes a day to dry to touch, but hard like glass (and glossy if it matters).
I used enamel on my DP Ryan and the hammered metallic on my lathe.  I primed the DP but just sprayed over the old paint on the lathe.
she's a beauty ryan. as for the paint rustoleum has been my go to for as long as i can remember.it's hard to beat. im surprised calif. hasn't banned it-lol.

working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

Is all rust oleum enamel?

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

I don’t think so Ryan.  I think the metallic stuff is just an oil-based paint.  At least it doesn’t have the “ceramic” look that enamels have when dried.
I’ll need to look. They have a grey enamel which would be good enough, although I suspect it’s not as blue as the original delta greys. If I use their regular line of rate can there are a lot more options. I suppose I could have a gallon mixed too if I ready wanted to. 

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

I think Toddjb told me he took a sample to Sherwin Williams to match it and they mixed some of their industrial paint for him.  He brushed it on and was very happy with the outcome.  For me, close enough is good enough if I can get it in a rattle can.
Kenny that’s my thought too. I’m going to paint the whole thing, so it’s not like it’s an issue of trying to match original…I’d
Just like to try to make it look as close as I can. And I’d much rather spray than brush…and rattle cam would be easiest!!

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

You might check out Rustoleum or Krylon farm and implement paint.  It will give it that "porcelain" look.  They are enamels meant to take a beating but can be a bit of a bear to get right.  Timing between coats is pretty important with those enamels.
Ok, thanks Sansoo. I think I was looking at their implement paint. Limited colors and largely labeled ENAMEL. I’m think I’ll probably go that route. I’m guessing if I follow the instructions on the can, it should work as advertised!

Have those of you that have used regular rust oleum had good results? Better colors available, but I’d rather get durability…

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

Has held up great on my drill press Ryan.
Has held up great on my drill press Ryan.

Confirming you used the regular Rust Oleum? Are you happy with the color and sheen?

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

Oh sorry, I got it backwards.  The DP is Rustoleum enamel.  My lathe has the regular stuff.  I just sprayed it over the old paint to cover bare spots and prevent rust from recurring.  I’ve been happy with how it’s held up and the color I used was damn close to an exact match to the Powermatic gold. 
Cool…and you’re happy with both paints? Preference if you were doing it again from scratch?

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".