Cut out the center stile and added a couple of wide pull out shelves. Pre-finished 5/8" BB with 1/2" melamine bottom, rabbeted in. 1/16" dado and butt joints for the drawer sides, glued and pinned.
Figuring out how to do something you have never done is what makes a good challenge.
So the question is: is it safe to remove the center stile on an upper cabinet? I hate that divider but was worried it might be needed from a structural perspective.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
This one is as safe as can be. There is a cooktop mounted in the stone top, (No Drawers) and I ran a 3"cleat all the way across the inside of the top rail.
Figuring out how to do something you have never done is what makes a good challenge.
Lazyman So the question is: is it safe to remove the center stile on an upper cabinet? I hate that divider but was worried it might be needed from a structural perspective.
After re-reading, you're asking about removing the stile on an upper cabinet?
A lot of factors go into that decision. Cabinet width, and construction mainly.
Figuring out how to do something you have never done is what makes a good challenge.
Thanks. They are not very wide but are crappy quality prefabs that were probably the cheapest the builder could find and I didn't want to find out that they are integral to the strength of the units.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
Bently, Your pull-outs look very attractive. They certain beat having deep shelves.
I installed a lot of pull-outs into old university science department cabinets I put in the shop, and I have a couple of pull-outs in the office. But in our kitchen, we have all drawers. We're lazy, too, which means we don't have to open doors and then pull out shelves. The office doors have a lot of nicks and gouges on the sides of them from not having the doors open all the way when I attempt to pull out the shelves. In the shop, they are single doors and I haven't had the same problem of gouging the doors. I also changed some of them over to drawers. I had originally wanted pullouts everywhere when we did our kitchen remodel. A bit of design advice for which I am thankful was to skip the pull-outs and go with drawers. I'm glad we did that. L/W
“Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin
L/W, I agree. I would rather have all drawers myself, but I won't argue with a client if they're going to pay me money. lol
They do make little corner bumpers you can put on the edge of the drawer that will hit the door before the guide will. And I'm not positive, but In my mind I believe I've seen guides with little rollers on the end that hit the door first, but I'm old and can't remember for sure. If they don't we should invent a little snap on roller that does. $$$
I will always recommend drawers first though.
Figuring out how to do something you have never done is what makes a good challenge.
Yes, Bently, the client is ALWAYS right. I learned that from my boss at my part-time job while in school. Not too many people treat their clients/customers that way today! L/W
“Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin
The guides I was thinking of come on flipper door slides. They have a roller to protect the door as you're pulling it out. They probably could be repurposed to use as regular guides but I've never tried it.
Just in case anybody is going to do it, here are some options for protection.
Here is a KV roller trolly that I found. (Never used one so not sure of the required spacing.) Plus it's ugly.. Here is the bumper I was talking about.
Figuring out how to do something you have never done is what makes a good challenge.
