The top block has been veneered and otherwise finished. Upper copper tube ready for the patina. In the fuming blocks, cleaned and bright: This will be wrapped with coarse sawdust and salt. Spread out on some paper towels, wetted to get it to stick to the copper Placed in the same fuming tube.
Meanwhile, laser out a pattern for the corbels. Thin MDF for the pattern, then replicate onto 1/4" hardboard for a full set. These have 90 degree corners with the top and back as the lamp post top block has mortises at 90. Still need to cut the taper so my walnut blanks get the ~2 degree cut for the tenon shoulder. Just used a miter gauge and box joint blade set. The tenons are then cut to the correct length
Templates are aligned with the tenon tips and ready for cutout.
First a close cut on the bandsaw... then onto a pattern bit with the router table.
I'll stack them in the vise and bulk sand. Now a fit check with the top block (upside down)
Good! Notches for the shade and corner rounding.
Glue and some fancy clamping to keep it all square and flush
Lamp cluster fit check. I did apply the finish to the block and inner sides of the corbels since when mated to the post, there won't be any way to get into the tight space. Wires pre-strung through the tubes and struts are glued and screwed into the three blocks
Jatoba banding added and cluster wired in.
Just the base left to attach and some finishing details (like applying the finish!)
Mighty nice Splint, that's one fine looking lamp, super nice design & work. I like the effect added to the tubing, very colorful. The finish on the wood is very smooth looking, mind if I ask what you used? Cheers
Thanks OT! Only finished part of the top (pre-finished before assembly). You can see it under the bend of the corbel, second photo up from the bottom. I used Osmo Polyx. Last lamp used lacquer and it was a pain to pre-finish parts (spray) before assembly since I could never get a spray into all the deep areas in the lamp. The Osmo is a hard wax oil which is rub on, rub off so very easy to use and a great finish for stuff that isn't exposed to a lot of abrasions (like a table top). Perfect for boxes, etc. I'll get the rest of the finish on after I attach the base plate.
I was skeptical at first because of the price, but you really don't use much at all. I started with the 0.125L can (4.22 oz) for about $20, lasted forever. Bought a second and am about 1/2 way through. Finally got a 0.75L can to go "all in" from Klingspor when they had it on sale. Some info on these hard wax oils.
Excellent work, Splint. Lots of interesting details in this lamp, and everything fits like a glove.
I agree with Oldtool on the finish. The article you linked is a good resource. Do you sand to very fine grits as the author suggested?
The way you get the patina on the copper is fascinating. It must take awhile to get comfortable with the idea that you won’t really know how the tubes will look until the fuming is complete. My wife and I started watching The Great Pottery Showdown, and parts of it reminded me of this blog. The potters decorate their pieces with various colorants, and they can sort of predict/hope how they’ll change in the kiln, but they just have to wait and see.
Thanks Ron! I currently still just sand to 320 with a soft sanding sponge, haven't really explored the changes with grits. Typically it is just sand, wipe on, wipe off.
I'll post a link to a patina video series here soon. There are a lot of them, some great, some just dumb. I found that slight changes is the setup can really affect the results. At least I know that the outcome will be blue, green, or both. Potters and glaze are crazy, goes from one side of the color wheel to the other after firing!
