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Yolanda
60 posts
and
9 followers
in almost 2 years
in almost 2 years
More from Yolanda
Cross Cut Sled
Project Information
-------------------------
My Christmas gift year before last was a better saw but I soon realized that I needed a cross cut sled. I did a lot of searching & researching and this is what I settled on, it's a combination of 3 or 4 sleds I liked and I hope and think it will work for me. The hardest thing was squaring up the fence…after multiple attempts using the "5 cut method", I got frustrated and went on to other parts of the project. When I got back to setting the fence square the next day, it came together the first time, it amazed me the accuracy I was able to attain. I have no idea what I was doing wrong. BTW, I found out that not all squares are created equal, many I had were inaccurate
The sled part consists of 2 - 1/2 inch thick sheets of birch plywood I had left over from another project that I glued together for a 1" thick piece. The front and back fence are ¾" left over plywood that I glued up to double the thickness clamping them with a level to keep them straight while the glue setup. I dado cut several slots to install T-track for various hold downs including the top of the fence for the stop block that I bought from Katz / Moses. I read some critiques of the Katz stop block, but, to me, the criticisms were either self inflicted, like not recessing the track screws or putting a washer under the thumb screw to solve the claimed block movement that occurred when bumping a piece into the stop. I put only one track guide under the sled to allow for a future option to rip diagonals.
I waxed the bottom with paste wax, I was so surprised what a difference it made. I wanted to attach a self adhesive measuring tape on the top of the fence. I have one someplace that I have not been able to locate, I know it will show up when I buy another. I also could not bring myself to buy the overpriced T-bolts so I bought a pound of carriage bolts for 1.89/lb, ground down the head and sides to make something that worked like a T-bolt.
SO, this was my first saw sled I made up, I REALLY like how it works and the accuracy I can make my cuts.
My Christmas gift year before last was a better saw but I soon realized that I needed a cross cut sled. I did a lot of searching & researching and this is what I settled on, it's a combination of 3 or 4 sleds I liked and I hope and think it will work for me. The hardest thing was squaring up the fence…after multiple attempts using the "5 cut method", I got frustrated and went on to other parts of the project. When I got back to setting the fence square the next day, it came together the first time, it amazed me the accuracy I was able to attain. I have no idea what I was doing wrong. BTW, I found out that not all squares are created equal, many I had were inaccurate
The sled part consists of 2 - 1/2 inch thick sheets of birch plywood I had left over from another project that I glued together for a 1" thick piece. The front and back fence are ¾" left over plywood that I glued up to double the thickness clamping them with a level to keep them straight while the glue setup. I dado cut several slots to install T-track for various hold downs including the top of the fence for the stop block that I bought from Katz / Moses. I read some critiques of the Katz stop block, but, to me, the criticisms were either self inflicted, like not recessing the track screws or putting a washer under the thumb screw to solve the claimed block movement that occurred when bumping a piece into the stop. I put only one track guide under the sled to allow for a future option to rip diagonals.
I waxed the bottom with paste wax, I was so surprised what a difference it made. I wanted to attach a self adhesive measuring tape on the top of the fence. I have one someplace that I have not been able to locate, I know it will show up when I buy another. I also could not bring myself to buy the overpriced T-bolts so I bought a pound of carriage bolts for 1.89/lb, ground down the head and sides to make something that worked like a T-bolt.
SO, this was my first saw sled I made up, I REALLY like how it works and the accuracy I can make my cuts.
Yolanda
21 Comments
Great project and looks way cool too!!!
https://www.lumberjocks.com/threads/blog-post-index.331197/#post-2112151
👍,🦆...
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
Very nice.....really like the t-tracks in the sled
Yolanda,
Nice job on the sled. They are a handy jig to have in any WW shop. Much safer and accurate.
Nice job on the sled. They are a handy jig to have in any WW shop. Much safer and accurate.
daveg, SW Washington & AZ
A well-built sled, that will have many uses.
Main Street to the Mountains
A "must have" for the TS, fine looking, lots of function, and a well done accomplishment!
Nicely done.
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
now thats a saw sled ! nice work.
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Fancy. Mewant.
No Bees. No Honey. Bees Lives Matter
Welcome here Yolanda,
That's a nice looking sled, better than mine for sure.
That's a nice looking sled, better than mine for sure.
Figuring out how to do something you have never done is what makes a good challenge.
Nice build. Good to see you finally made it here
Built for purpose and to last. Great job Yolanda and welcome aboard!
Well done! Many a fine project will be created with your new sled, enjoy!
Nice sled, I really like the miter jigs.
Yo, Yo' (not the coca-cola type). If I may be rude to make a suggestion for next time.
If you plan to make another or decide to use different kerfed blades or angled/bevel cuts... between the tracks, convert the top 1/2" layer into 2 x 1/4". The bottom 1/4" layer fixed/permanent to the bottom 1/2" and the top layer replaceble. That way you can swap out the top "skin" with whatever kerfed/angled insert... just keep the first/original skin as a drilling template for future skins so that you hit the same screw holes without perforating the bottom layer.
BTW, 👍for the KM stop... I've got a couple and love them.
If you plan to make another or decide to use different kerfed blades or angled/bevel cuts... between the tracks, convert the top 1/2" layer into 2 x 1/4". The bottom 1/4" layer fixed/permanent to the bottom 1/2" and the top layer replaceble. That way you can swap out the top "skin" with whatever kerfed/angled insert... just keep the first/original skin as a drilling template for future skins so that you hit the same screw holes without perforating the bottom layer.
BTW, 👍for the KM stop... I've got a couple and love them.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
Very nice sled. Looks a lot like the one I made on my second attempt. Like you I learned many of my squares weren't exactly square when I made my first sled. The second attempt with accurate tools went way smoother.
Great design and execution. I remember you from LJs. Glad you came over.
Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner
Nothing better than a well designed sled - this is one for sure.
Welcome aboard!
Welcome aboard!
Thanks you all, love the suggestions also. I'm not sure yet how this works, so I hope you all get my "thank you".
Yolanda
It's all good.
Main Street to the Mountains
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