NEW - Making Dowels with New 3/8" (9.5 mm) Router Jig

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INTRODUCTION

So between yesterday and today, I finished making this router jig for making 3/8" (9.5 mm ) dowel. It accompanies the 1/4" (6.35 mm) jig I made and completes a set. They both work great.

If you noticed, I marked info on the jigs to aid when I'm setting up on my router. In addition, I thought I'd attempt to explain the making of it here.

FIG 1

I cut a chunk of 2"x 4" (50.8 mm x 101.6 mm) and hand planed it to 1- 3/8" T x 3" W x 3-1/8" L  (34.9 mm x 76.2 mm x 79.375 mm)




FIG 2

Then I drew  a line 1-1/2" (38.1 mm) up from the bottom and make a center punch mark on center to the width.



FIG 3

I used my dowel centering jig to quickly find the center of the width.



FIG 4

I drew a line from this punch mark around and across the right side. Then another vertical line on center to the right side width and across the top. The intersection of these lines on the right side indicate the tangent point between the input hole and output hole.



FIG 5

Next, I clamped and setup in a drill press drill. Then drilled an input hole from the punch mark made in Fig 1
The size drill to use is determined by multiplying the Finished dowel size by 1.4142.
Therefore 3/8" (.375") or (9.5 mm) x 1.4142 = .530" (13.5 mm) Normally I would use a 17/32" (13.5 mm) Forstner drill bit. But I wanted less meat to shave off on rough stock so I'm used a 1/2" (.500") or (12.7 mm) Forstner bit instead.
I set the depth and drilled to the vertical line made as shown in Fig 4.
Without moving the setup, I removed the 1/2" (12.7 mm) Forstner bit and replaced it with a 3/8" (9.5 mm) Forstner bit. I continued drilling through. If you can't make it through you can swap out for a Brad point or other bit and continue to completion. Just don't move anything until all is done.



FIG 6 and FIG 7

Next I  drilled out the recess for the 1/2" (12.7 mm) trim router bit so it's cutting edge lines up with the 3/8" (9.5 mm) output hole at the tangent point between the 1/2" (12.7 mm) input hole and 3/8" (9.5 mm) output hole.

Here's the completed jig.





FIG 8

This measures .373" (9.47 mm) all up and down the dowel with no sanding. This is a great tolerance for a finished 3/8" (.375) or (9.5 mm) dowel.



Thanks for looking!

Feel free to comment, ask questions, and "thumbs up 👍" if you like it!

Cheers!
Mr Rick

16 Comments

Awesome tutorial, thanks Rick.
Dutchy
THANKS !

You're welcome Dutchy!
Fotodog
Awesome tutorial, thanks Rick.

You're welcome Fotodog! Hope it helps you!

Cool MrR... would be worth a few more thumbs if it came in metric... my router refuses imperial.

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

Steve Rasmussen
Great jig and write up!

Thanks Steve. I appreciate it. 
LIttleBlackDuck

Cool MrR... would be worth a few more thumbs if it came in metric... my router refuses imperial.

LOOK AGAIN Duckie! So give me my few more "thumbs up 👍"!  Cheers! 🙂
Good instructibles !

Just thought, what if you added a depth screw to contact the router bit bearing at the apex of the U channel.
You could dial in the cut depth. 
Of course with the setup you show, adding shims between the jig and the fence to increase the diameter would also work.
SplinterGroup...I took your suggestion and added a depth screw to contact the router bit bearing. It works but great caution needs to be taken doing it. There can be a tendancy for the scew to flex the bit. Visibility setting the screw is a little obscure.
I set it all up. Ran some parts.  Then took apart completely. Then set up again and ran some parts again and it works accurately. 

 MrRick
 commented about 6 hours ago
new
LIttleBlackDuck

Cool MrR... would be worth a few more thumbs if it came in metric... my router refuses imperial.

LOOK AGAIN Duckie! So give me my few more "thumbs up 👍"!  Cheers! 🙂

Sorry MrR, but 3/8" translates to 9.525mm and metric does not come in 0.025mm increments... and for 1/4", there is a chasmatic 0.15mm... big enough to measure in light years or at least call a taxi.
Now for power tool users that may be in our tolerance range, however, I thought for a handtool user such a monumental discrepancy is a stoning offence.

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

3/8 is .375 x 25.4 (this is what I used) = 9.525 mm and then I rounded to 9.5 mm. C'mon .. I think this will do. LOL.

 MrRick
..... I rounded to 9.5 mm. C'mon .. I think this will do. LOL.

Only if you use a 19mm dado to cut a 2.2mm kerf... or go metric!

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

Yeah, the screw gives fine adjustments, but I like how you clamp the block to the fence for stability.
I'd say set it up, make a test cut and if a bit too fat, just add shims and reclamp.
Yeah...I just set up, make a test cut, and make adjustments with a light finger tap to the fence and usually once or twice and it's ready to go. I'll see over time how the screw adder goes. Thanks for the suggestion.
SplinterGroup
Yeah, the screw gives fine adjustments, but I like how you clamp the block to the fence for stability.
I'd say set it up, make a test cut and if a bit too fat, just add shims and reclamp.

SplinterGroup....I just had to share this...I came out to my shop about 15 minutes ago. Grabbed the 1/4" jig and clamped it to my fence. I made no adjustments to the set screw after setting it up yesterday. 
WHOAAH!! I ran though two 27" maple lengths. It was stunning! They came out smooth and consistent over the entire length at 0.249" diameter. 
I'm very happy. 😀