An exercise in traditional hand tool woodworking

I saw one of these expandable book ends on the web and I wanted to try and duplicate it. My main objective for this was to complete it using only traditional old hand tools, no electricity - plug or battery - except for the lighting in the shop. I made several mistakes, had to adjust my approach occasionally,  and needed to remake some of the components, but in the end I think I learned a lot and gained much needed experience.
The story goes like this;
To start I had to use panel saws to dimension parts out of boards. Didn't photo this, pretty sure all here knows how to do.

Once ripped components were cut slightly oversized, I jointed edges with my preferred method, using my Stanley #7:

Next, I needed to take the center sliding board down to a half inch to permit clearance for a cross member on the two outside edges. I did this with a very old jointer that I converted to a scrub plane:

Once it measured the half inch, I cut a quarter inch rebate on both sides with my moving filletster plans:

then this was followed by a quarter inch  groove on each of the outside members, via a plow plane:

To make the quarter inch thick cross member support, I resawed a 3/4" piece with my homemade kerfing saw, which is adjustable in cutting depth, so I cut half way through from each side:

then followed with a coffin smoother:

Up next, making the molding for the vertical ends, for top and bottom trim, but different shapes: (each side of the strip of wood shown used different planes)

One of the molding planes has a spring angle, not visible to me from behind & this has always given me a problem, so I added a vertical member on the spring for reference from the back end:

I then made a recess for the cross member support so the assembly would set flat, and did so with my Stanley router:

Now time to chop the mortise into the main cross members, using a mortising chisel. The pine board clamped to the side of the mortise was used to aid my poor eyesight in keeping the mortise straight:

The tenon on the side panels was first cut by my kerfing saw for the cheeks:

followed by cutting the sides by moving filletster:

I decided to put dowels in the cross member to long sliding members joints, drilled using my brace & bits:

As you can see, I forgot the center slider was only a half inch thick. I fixed this by gluing a quarter inch thick piece over the exposed holes as can be seen in the initial bottom view picture above. As for using the brace and bit, I needed to sharpen the 1/4" bit using needle files shown, and keeping the brace & bit straight in use proved a big challenge for me.

I also wedged the tenon in the through mortise, with poplar wood, and one can be slightly seen in the top inside down photo peeking out around one of the felt feet I stuck on.

Last step on this build was adding the bottom molding and top crown moldings, these by molding planes shown prior. These were mitered by hand to wrap around their mating pieces. The top of the crown however, was a 1 1/2" by 8 1/2" cove molded piece. The length of this cove was made with a round molding plane - going with the grain, but the ends with end grain was more difficult than anticipated.
I tried the round plane, no way was this going to work. So, I ended up removing most of the scrap portion with a very sharp parin chisel, used it to make a V across the side, then followed with a rasp - round file - and sandpaper.

All in all, I had a good time making shavings without noise or dust, and if called upon to use these tools again, I'm sure I'll do better next time.

This set of bookends is 13" between uprights when closed, and 22" when opened all the way.

Thanks for viewing through my long story,

Tom