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Jeffski1
13 posts
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in 3 months
More from Jeffski1
Bevel Sled
Here's a few pics of my new bevel sled. It's made of MDF, dimensions are 18" x 24" and as you can see I added t-tracks and flip stops. It has a single metal runner with adjustable spring loaded plungers. I made the front fence adjustable. I've been using it this past week to make some boxes.
Jeff
13 Comments
Great tool Jeff. I use an incra sled to make my boxes.
Nice!!
Just yesterday I was using mine - unfortunately I haven't been able to get it perfectly set so I have to skim cut using my miter gauge. Worked out, but really need to get my sled set. Your sled looks to be giving perfect bevels at the corners.
Just yesterday I was using mine - unfortunately I haven't been able to get it perfectly set so I have to skim cut using my miter gauge. Worked out, but really need to get my sled set. Your sled looks to be giving perfect bevels at the corners.
TheWoodGuy- Thanks. I just picked up the Incra 1000se. I'm enjoying it. I did look at the Incra sleds as well.
BB1-Thanks. Those boxes in my pics are 2 1/4 in height so there's no run out. I'll be making larger boxes so I'll find out if its dialed in.
BB1-Thanks. Those boxes in my pics are 2 1/4 in height so there's no run out. I'll be making larger boxes so I'll find out if its dialed in.
Jeff
BB1-Thanks. Those boxes in my pics are 2 1/4 in height so there's no run out. I'll be making larger boxes so I'll find out if its dialed in.
Longer cuts are definitely the truth check on a sled! One aspect to consider is securing the board so it cannot shift during the cut. I added some adhesive backed sandpaper to my back fence to try to help with that.
Good looking sled, it looks well thought out. I just made myself a smaller sled because I’ve only been making small items for the last few years. I have one similar size as yours, but I hardly use it anymore because it's so heavy.
.................. John D....................
Very nice!
Can you elaborate on the "single metal runner with adjustable spring loaded plungers" bit? That sounds intriguing.
Making the fence adjustable should come in handy if the alignment ever gets wonky.
Can you elaborate on the "single metal runner with adjustable spring loaded plungers" bit? That sounds intriguing.
Making the fence adjustable should come in handy if the alignment ever gets wonky.
Jeff. I bought the Incra replacement panels so I could cut 45s for boxes. It has a panel that catches the cut off pieces. You could make one for your sled.
BB1-Sandpaper is a great idea.
awSum55-My bevel sled wasn't heavy until I added the fences-that tipped the scales lol.
Ron Stewart-The metal miter slot runner is from Peachtree Woodworking. You use a allen key to adjust the spring loaded plungers to get a nice snug fit in the miter slot. A little finicky to get adjusted but overall I'm happy with the product.
TheWoodGuy-Thanks. Does the drop off panel have to be the same thickness as the sled?.
awSum55-My bevel sled wasn't heavy until I added the fences-that tipped the scales lol.
Ron Stewart-The metal miter slot runner is from Peachtree Woodworking. You use a allen key to adjust the spring loaded plungers to get a nice snug fit in the miter slot. A little finicky to get adjusted but overall I'm happy with the product.
TheWoodGuy-Thanks. Does the drop off panel have to be the same thickness as the sled?.
Jeff
Good looking tool and the sample box miters look great!
Thanks Gary G.
Jeff
this looks like a great sled. i need to make one for doing bevels myself. looks like dead on bevels !
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Nice sled, but of MDF, I bet it's heavy. Having the tracks will allow you to really secure your stock to the sled, which eliminates the error you can easily get from movement during the cut. You could also consider some PSA sandpaper to give some grit.
I have a pile of sleds, all for different reasons, but sliding something through the blade well supported is a great answer for movement which can queer any cut. So for me, and my adult tremors I love them.
On 3 of mine I have a deck for the offcuts to slide out onto. All 3 of them are locked in place, and don't move, much like using an outfeed table, both safety, and protection for the stock you are spending time trying to get a very nice cut, no bouncy slidy out of control where the offcut can fly up onto the blade and become a rocket headed at your head. On my decks all 3 of them are from the same material that I made the deck of the sled from. Offcuts just slide off, and usually just sit there, so my vote would be same height, and locked down so it isn't moving, and possibly then competing with the sled itself.
If you do a lot of mitered corners on boxes and such, you might also want to consider a 45 degree sled. I use mine for short exact miters, and not so long bevels. Sandpaper on the fence, and deck right near the blade make it hold stock so I seldom have to use the clamps I laid in via T Track. I looked at a lot of designs, but ended up going kinda non conventional. At least it seems, most miter sleds have some kind of wedge shape, which I had a long time ago, and had a lot of issues with creep. Made for some goofy cuts. With this style I find the cuts to consistently be right where I want them. Marie offers a few challenges to overcome, so I am popping her video on. Plus some of this type have the blade right at the edge. The way she and I did it, leaves you an offcut table that is attached, so it doesn't try to compete with the sled, because it is the sled.
I have a pile of sleds, all for different reasons, but sliding something through the blade well supported is a great answer for movement which can queer any cut. So for me, and my adult tremors I love them.
On 3 of mine I have a deck for the offcuts to slide out onto. All 3 of them are locked in place, and don't move, much like using an outfeed table, both safety, and protection for the stock you are spending time trying to get a very nice cut, no bouncy slidy out of control where the offcut can fly up onto the blade and become a rocket headed at your head. On my decks all 3 of them are from the same material that I made the deck of the sled from. Offcuts just slide off, and usually just sit there, so my vote would be same height, and locked down so it isn't moving, and possibly then competing with the sled itself.
If you do a lot of mitered corners on boxes and such, you might also want to consider a 45 degree sled. I use mine for short exact miters, and not so long bevels. Sandpaper on the fence, and deck right near the blade make it hold stock so I seldom have to use the clamps I laid in via T Track. I looked at a lot of designs, but ended up going kinda non conventional. At least it seems, most miter sleds have some kind of wedge shape, which I had a long time ago, and had a lot of issues with creep. Made for some goofy cuts. With this style I find the cuts to consistently be right where I want them. Marie offers a few challenges to overcome, so I am popping her video on. Plus some of this type have the blade right at the edge. The way she and I did it, leaves you an offcut table that is attached, so it doesn't try to compete with the sled, because it is the sled.
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