Why is this happening?

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 I might have a bad blade or maybe there is something going on that one of you have experienced before. Every time I cut a small piece using my miter gauge it shoots the cut off back like a bullet. I have been cut several times by the piece being shot back and hitting my hand. I doesn't happen with my other blades, but this is a new blade so it could be faulty. This blade is a Freud FTG and I have used this brand blade for years without incident. I use a blade stabilizer even though it is a 1/8" blade. The cuts it makes seem perfect, but something is not right. I’m pretty sure it’s the blade, because t doesn’t happen with my other blades, but they all cost at least twice what this one does. 
Anyone want to take a shot at what is causing this?




.................. John D....................

25 Replies

Looks like your video is not accessible.  

--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

what happened to the vid ?

working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

Sorry guys, hope I fixed it.

.................. John D....................

Awsum,

Check if you blade is square to the mitre slot.

Next see if anything tooth is out by laying it on the table. After that I got nothing. 


Petey

That's a big ol' rip blade, isn't it? Between the tooth count (looks like a 24 or less with huge gullets) and the burning on the side of the work piece, it doesn't look like it should be doing cross-grain work. 
You might try raising the blade a little higher so that it is cutting more downward?

--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

Looks like an Incra miter gauge. Attach a piece of plywood to push both pieces through the cut. Use 3/4", and move the stop to the other slot.


After a 2nd look, you already have it. Move the plywood you have out farther to push the workpiece and the offcut through the blade.

There's roosters laying chickens,and chickens laying eggs... John Prine

There's roosters laying chickens,and chickens laying eggs... John Prine

As WillMSP noted, the cut is very burned.  Does this also happen if you cut at 90 deg?  Were your previous Freud blades that worked OK the same tooth count and configuration as this one?

“Fake quotes will ruin the internet” — Benjamin Franklin

I'm with Nathan in thinking your blade is too low, teeth catch it and fling it. Try it with the blade high enough that the entire tooth at the top of the arc clears the piece.

Of course for best and safest fix you need support behind each side. For small bits like these, I just scoot my wood fence (attached to the miters aluminum extrusion) over to straddle both sides of the cut.
All of the above! 
60, or even a 100 tooth blade, a little higher, with a backing board.
I also noticed that you cut 2 pieces. 
More of a burn on the 1st piece, and it seems to be burning when you back the piece up. 
I'm not a fan of the eraser hold down. 
It's possible the blade is no good, and it might be pulling the piece back into the blade just enough to burn it.  
I would try a few runs going all the way through, past the back of the blade,  just to see what happens.

Figuring out how to do something you have never done is what makes a good challenge.

I'll try a few things mentioned and see if it helps. It is the same brand and type blade I've used for years without problems. I think the burn is because I pushed the piece through so slowly and it was cherry. If no luck maybe the best thing to do is replace the blade and see if it still happens.

.................. John D....................

Are all of the teeth FTG? No shearing teeth? 
Are all of the teeth FTG? No shearing teeth?
Yes, this is my 3rd blade, and this hasn't happened before.

.................. John D....................

I understand that this is the same model blade you've used successfully before.  But, this is a heavy-duty ripping blade being used for a (sort of) crosscut of a small piece.  I always use a crosscut blade for doing something like this.

From the Freud overview of this blade:
Ideal For: Smooth, Fast Heavy-Duty Ripping. Depth of cut (3/4" to 2-3/4")

The hook angle of this blade is a whopping 20 deg.  A typical crosscut blade has a 10 deg hook angle.

“Fake quotes will ruin the internet” — Benjamin Franklin

yeah thats an aggressive blade for what you were doing.

working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

Yes, this is my 3rd blade, and this hasn't happened before.

Ah, I have that exact blade. Love it for ripping. Wouldn't personally use it for miters or cross cuts. 

In and around this price range, I also like the CMT "Orange Chrome" line; the full-kerf combo blade is probably mounted on my saw 90% of the time. 
I checked and that is the same blade I use for spline grooving. Nice flat bottomed 1/8" kerf slots.

A better test would be a wider piece of stock, but then again it's the wrong blade for a crosscut.
I know the blades purpose, but sometimes I'm lazy because I just need a quick cut. I know how I can prevent this from shooting back at me, my confusion is why this has never happened in the several years I've been doing it. 🫤

.................. John D....................

That's why I keep a combo blade on my table saw.  I hate switching blades so I pretty much use it for everything.  

--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.