I am about to finish a small gun cleaning box project (Granadillo and Soft Maple) and want to finish it, or at least the interior of the box, with West Systems 105/207 Epoxy:
- What can I do to the wood first? Stain? Dye? Shellac?… etc.
- What can I do AFTER using this epoxy as a finish? (same as above)
My reasons for choosing this epoxy include trying to fill some of the rough cut gouges in the +2500 Janka hardness of the Granadillo. The boards are 1/4" thick and gouges are too deep to sand out. My second reason is to seal the wood against the inevitable leaks of Hoppes #9 Solvent and Gun Oil products to be stored inside of the box.
Mike; do all your finishing before applying epoxy. West system is impervious to most chemicals use daily so forget staining afterwards. You can taint the epoxy with colors and dyes. West System has some. Looking forward to see the finished product.
Have a pleasant Thanksgiving.
Tor and Odin are the greatest of gods.
Great! I will do my dyeing/staining prior to epoxy coats. Thinking of doing the bullets BEFORE I apply them to the Granadillo top piece. I other words I am thinking that only the maple base and appliques get stained and the Granadillo goes natural. Probably going to leave the internal partitions unfinished and loose within, because that will make it easy to replace/remove them if/when this box gets re-purposed.
Nice looking box Mike. All of the above info is good. My only suggestion, if you haven’t already bought epoxy, is that if it were me I would use S1 sealer. To my knowledge WEST doesn’t have an equivalent product.
The early bird gets the worm but its the second mouse that gets the cheese.
Oops! Sorry Paul, I have already purchased the West Systems short “gallon” of resin and short “quart” of hardener. About 20 or so years ago, I used to use West System when vacuum bagging/laminating RC Sailplane wings with fiberglass and Obechi veneer over custom cut foam airfoils, so I do have past experience with West Systems slow set products. Made some great high-performance wings BTW. Sure wish I hadn’t sold my vacuum bagging system way back when… 8-(
That S-1 sealer definitely looks like the superior of the two and knowing your boat-building background I will remember “S-1 Sealer” for future products, when the time comes. I have a number of outside wrought iron benches that I need to replace the wood on, so when I get to that project I’ll be sure to remember this.
Thanks for the tip!
By golly Randy, I think you are right! I was having a hard time installing those tiny #2 hinge screws (actually broke one in place) because of the \+2500 hardness of the Granadillo. Had to increase the drill tap above recommended size PLUS… Had the bottle of gun oil at arm’s length, grabbed it and it made threading those little screws a piece of cake! On two of the three hinges that I used the gun oil on, it doesn’t come clean, even after naphtha and denatured alcohol. So I am considering using BLO with just a touch of Japan hardener, and then use the epoxy.
Got some more cleaning rods in and test fitting how/where I want the finger joint slots on the bin separators. Used my finger-joint practice pieces for mock up and liked how they work.
Taking my sweet time on this. I have changed directions on this so many times that I wonder if I am already there!… ;-)
My appologies, I have been remiss about posting this box after finishing it. Thus far I am staying with a BLO finish, with the exception being those bullet appliques that were finished with amber shellac, metallic Sharpies, and final coated with a clear lacquer for protection against the dissolving properties of the BLO and gun solvents. Did much testing of that to assure color retention. Used hidden magnets for the lid latch, though I think I can improve on that part on future boxes.
I have re-coated with BLO 3x and may continue with that choice, OR I may eventually coat with epoxy. I do like the warmer tone of BLO though…